156-157
J Haberliwith A and J Weissenflub and J
Rubin,
The mountain is called simply Breithorn on the LK map but is
distinguished here by name to avoid confusion with the
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn a few km to the N. It has three quite
different faces. The N face dominates the L6tschental and is steep
and icy, the E face is an easy glacier slope whilst the S face forms a
high rocky rampart. The rock on the mountain is generally of good
quality.
D
85 This is the striking ridge projecting into the Innre Baltschieder glacier
from the SE ridge of the mountain just SE of Pt 3664m. It is a highly
recommended climb on good granite and is probably the best climb on the
mountain.
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow Rut 237 onto the Innre
Baltschieder glacier and curve round to the foot of the ridge. Move
round to its E side onto a scree covered terrace. Easy cracks lead to
the crest which is followed as closely as possible (II, III). Just before
the S flank (on the R) merges with the ridge climb a 10m step on
well spaced holds (IV). The ridge steepens abruptly. After three
slim gendarmes, climb a 7m wall (V--, 3 pitons) and then a tower
(IV, piton). This section can be avoided after the three slim
gendarmes by a traverse on the L side into a slabby couloir which
leads back to the crest.
A short wall blocking progress is climbed a bit on the L (IV)
then the steep crest of the ridge (III, IV) is followed until it eases.
Next cross some small gendarmes (III, IV), followed by a large one.
A last very slim one can be turned on the L. Easy climbing now
passes another gendarme (L or R) then easy rock, or snow on the R,
leads to Pt 3664m. The SE ridge to the summit is easy. 6-8 hr
156-157