154-155
238
TD/
TD+ Winter: R Karl and H Kilhn,
82 The_face is about 900m high with a slabby rock barrier at about half-
height. It is this barrier which causes most of the difficulty. The best
conditions for an ascent are when the rock zone is well covered with snow
(May-June most commonly and later in very snowy years or in winter).In
very snowy conditions the technical difficulty is not very high (about D).
There is some danger from stone fall low on the route and there is also
danger from the sieracs on the NE ridge. The average angle is 55, but it is
up to 65o in the central zone. All fairly serious. See also photo 83.
Reach the foot of the face from the Oberaletsch hut by way of the
Beich glacier (1.5 hr). Start just E of Pt 2898m by climbing up
avalanche debris to the bergscrund and cross this (usually on the R).
Now move up L to the snow/ice slopes above some ice cliffs and
then climb direct to the highest point in the slabby rock zone.
Traverse R below some very steep slabs for about two rope lengths
(mixed) then move up (still mixed) to reach the upper ice slopes.
Climb these direct to the summit. 8-11hr for the face.
82 In June 1977L Griffin and P Bartlett climbed a very direct line to the
summit on the W side of the face which
better routes he had done. It was objectively safe (at the time the lower
part and traverse on the
by falling ice). The route was climbed in snowy conditions (fairly
essential) and had some excellent pitches up icy runnels with good rock
belays. Probably best climbed in winter or spring.
On I 2July 1973 P Boardman and D Barton, in very snowy
conditions, took a more direct line on the
eliminated the traverse. Conditions were so good that the climb took
only 4hr.
On 29-30Aug 1990 the Yugoslavs V Furdan and Z Pozgaj
climbed a line that more or less followed the
rochzone was fairly snow free. Where the 1977 route climbed straight
through the R side of the rock zone the Yugoslavs moved out L and
climbed six pitches on rock (up to VI+ and Al) before rejoining the 1977
route(ED2).
AD+/D R Dumford and T
83
The NE ridge itself is mainly glacier terrain leading down to a rocky
section before a col SWofPt3440m. Below this point there are three
ridges terminating in the Beich glacier. The col can be reached by way of
the Nesthorn glacier (only named on older maps) to the S of the three
ridges or by any one of the ridges. The glacier route was taken by the
Dumford/Hammond party; the S-most of the ridges by E Haberli with
A and WS cabell,
and R Schefferli, 4-5 July 1967 and the N-most ridge by C Blum and
Reach the start of any of these routes from the Oberaletsch hut by
crossing the Beich glacier.
To climb the glacier route reach the snowy coombe SE of
Pt 3440m by a wide circling movement. Climb up to the col SW of
Pt 3440m by moving Rwards up easy rocks after crossing a
bergschrund. 3hr
To climb the S-most ridge (AD+) get onto the ridge from its
S side at a shoulder close to Pt 2874 m by a short couloir. The ridge
is followed more or less on its crest. After a first steep section (II,
III) avoid a pyramid shaped gendarme on its S side. Start the
traverse by first descending about 20m down a small couloir, which
starts at a gap 10m before the gendarme. After the traverse the
climb is straightforward for some way until a smooth step is
reached. Climb this (IV, 2 pitons), then descend delicately to a gap.
Once out of the gap there are some exposed bits of III and IV, then
it becomes easier. Pt 3440mis a slender tower and is climbed on the
R of the ridge (III+). Its SW ridge is narrow and jagged and leads
down to the col at the start of the NE ridge. It is descended by
ledges about 40m below the crest on the SE side before the crest is
joined 40m from the col. 4-5hr
To climb the central ridge (D) climb up into the snowy
coombe on its S side and get onto the ridge where it becomes less
steep, above the first step at about 2850m. Keep on the R of the
crest at first, then on the crest to the top of the first tower (IV+).
Descend a few m on the S side then abseil 15mon the N side before
turning the next tower on the N side by ledges and some unstable
blocks. The third tower is climbed on its S side and then the fourth
to its horizontal crest. Make a 20m abseil on the N side to the next
gap and climb the fifth tower by its crest until 20m below its top.
Traverse to the gap before the sixth tower and at this level reach a
small square platform on the S side of it (V). Now climb this tower
and the seventh (on the S flank) and reach Pt 3440m and the col as
for the S most ridge. 5-7hr
The N-most ridge is more sustained with several pitches of IV
and IV+ with some V and takes 8-9hr.
From the col climb the initial part of the ridge (II, III) to
reach snow. Now keep to the boundary between rock and snow/ice
to pass the s6racs on the N side of the ridge. It may be necessary to
use the rocks on the E face in places. Eventually traverse across a
sort of snow funnel and then climb a step by a snowy ramp.
Gradually easing slopes lead up to the fore-summit and a corniced
crest to the main summit. 3hr
To avoid soft snow on the upper part of the Beich glacier in
the afternoon it is possible to descend to
the
Gredetschioch by way of the Gredetschtal. 4 hr
AD+ In descent: J and E Hopkinson, G Lowe and C Slingsby with a
83 porter,
This long ridge eventually finishes at the Sparrhorn, a popular viewpoint
above Belalp, and can be climbed in its entirety from there. However the
route described here is much shorter and joins the ridge at Pt 3539m.
Excellent granite with numerous pinnacles.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow the glacier route to the NE ridge
(Route 240). At about 3200m turn SW, cross the bergschrund and
climb up to the col (Pt 3539m) by a steep snow and rock slope. The
pinnacles on the first part of the ridge can be turned on the SW side
but a particularly imposing tower is turned on the NE side. It can be
traversed by climbing a crack on the R to a stance, then descending
a gangway to a ledge on the SW side before climbing vertically (few
good holds) for one pitch to just below its top. Make a 10m abseil
into a gap beyond the tower.
The upper part of the ridge gives some steep and demanding
climbing on superb rock with good holds. Some of the difficulties
can be avoided on the NE side. A final step, with few holds, is
climbed direct. 8-10hr
154-155