152-153
This is a long established pass allowing passage between the
Latschental and the Oberaletsch hut. The actual pass is about 80m
SW of the snowy low point on the ridge and is close to a small rock
pyramid. It is not easy to find in mist.
F
From Fafteralp cross the river at the bridge (1771m) and walk up
the valley as far as Pt 1937m. Now get onto and follow the moraine
on the E side of the Dischlig glacier to a height of about 2760m.
From here either climb the E branch of the glacier (few crevasses) or
continue on the side of the glacier to reach a rock barrier below
the col. Climb the barrier on stepped rock (I, II) to the col (slightly
tricky if snow covered). 5-6hr
F
From the Oberaletsch hut get onto the Beich glacier and climb it to
a height of about 2800m directly below the col. Turn N and climb
rock (granite) and snow straight up before making a slight
movement E to reach the col. 2.5 -3hr
B George and H Mortimer with C and U Almer,
The mountain is more or less hidden from view from most distant
points and is consequently not well known. This should not detract
from its potential for providing good climbing. It is frequently
climbed from both the Oberaletsch hut and the Baltschiederklause
hut. Its most notable feature is its N face which offers some quite
challenging routes.
PD First ascent party
82 A pleasant climb from either of the huts, mostly on glacier terrain and
frequently ascended by parties traversing between the two huts. See also
photo83
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 236 to 2800 m then climb up
the glacier close under the Lonzahorner. Once above the sierac zone
turn SE to reach the Gredetschjoch (3508m). It may be possible to
shorten the approach by climbing lines further E but this will
depend on the condition of the icefalls. 4hr
From the Baltschiederklause hut descend a little way
(approach route to the hut) and get onto the moraine on the W side
of the Innre Baltschieder glacier. Climb this to a marked steepening
and descend onto the glacier. Curve round in an are to just S of
Pt 2866.4m and from there climb up to the foot of the rocky couloir
leading to the Baltschiederlicka (3219m). The couloir is about 100m
high and is fairly steep and very loose. Scramble up the bed of the
couloir or climb the rocks on its N side to the gap (in descent go
down the couloir and abseil the last few m). An easy descent on the
E side of the gap, on snow or scree covered ledges, leads to the
Gredetsch glacier. Climb this to the Gredetschjoch. 3 V2hr
From the Gredetschjoch climb the ridge on snow or ice
following, if possible, a sort of corridor between rock and snow.
There is a short descent after the fore-summit. 1 V2hr, about 6hr in
All
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