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Probably R Carrupt
and two others,
What amounts to a rock buttress at the foot of the E ridge of the
Wysshorn.
D- H Schneider and U Saxer,
A good varied climb of300m with difficulties up to lV.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 229 to the stone-covered
terrace on the E side of the mountain and follow it S to the foot of
the rib. Start a few mR and slant up L, passing a rocky projection,
to reach a ledge 50m up the rib via some slabs. Move up R (IV) to
the bottom of a grey slab and climb it to a chimney on the R. Climb
the chimney and a short wall on the R to the foot of two slabs (easily
seen from the hut). Climb the first of these, slanting L, then the
higher one, to a piton belay at its top. Get back onto the rib and
climb a difficult crack (IV, 3 pitons) up a steep slab, then go straight
up for 15m to a belay. Make a gradual descent L to a chimney with a
jammed block. Climb this (III), move easily L up a ramp for 30m
then move up R to a short dibdre-crack which is climbed to the
crest. Easier climbing leads to the summit, one step being avoided
on the R (III). 4-5hr
To descend; go along the W ridge to the lowest point. On the
N side make a gently rising traverse across snow slopes to some
detached blocks. Abseil 20m (slings in place) to a rock band or make
a 40m abseil to the glacier. Return to the stone-covered terrace. 1hr
Torberg 3022.8m,
3160m and 3325m
Only the lowest of these three points is named on the LK map. All
three amount only to high points on the S ridge of the Wysshorn.
The highest is the Ober Torberg, the lowest is the Torberg and the
other simply the Mittler Torberg. There are several short but
worthwhile climbs on their excellent granite.
D C Blum and H Schneider,
400 m of good climbing with some IV+. The rib rises from the Distel
glacier to a point just S of Pt 3325m and is prominently marked on the
map.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 230 to the foot of the rib.
1.5 hr
Move up the glacier slope on the N side of the rib, this flank
forming a massive slab. Climb a system of cracks (difficult to start if
there is not much snow) straight up to a belay in a niche at the upper
edge of the slab (IV). Move L to get onto the crest of the rib (III-)
and climb 8m up a slab on well spaced holds (IV) to a block belay.
By another slab (small holds) and a short wall reach a terrace (IV-).
Move up to the start of a diedre slanting R and climb it before
regaining the crest by a short wall and an awkward step (III).
Move 5m R to a chimney and climb this (IV+). The next step
on the rib is mounted by a series of cracks on the L, then follow the
crest (III) to a 40m slab. Climb this by a narrow crack (IV+,
5 pitons) then easily L wards to the summit. 2-2.5 hr, 4-5hr in all
Descend the S ridge on the W flank, passing below the Mittler
Torberg, and from the gap N of the Torberg descend a couloir to
the Beich glacier. 2hr to the hut
233 MITTLER
TORBERG: SOUTH-EAST RIDGE
TD- H Nievergelt
and
A fine curving ridge to Pt 3160m (not marked on LK, this point is S of
Pt 3325m). It is mostly III-IV but there is some V and V+.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 230 to the foot of the E rib
of Pt 3325m. Traverse SE across snow slopes to the foot of the rib,
which has a shallow diadre on its L side. Start in this diadre. Climb
40m (V) up it and then about 5 pitches as direct as possible up the
crest (bits of lV+) to a wall. Climb a detached flake on the L then
move up R wards and then back gradually L to a belay (30m, V).
Climb a further 20m R wards to a belay just L of the crest (V). Now
a narrow slab (V+) followed by a diedre-crack (V) leads to the crest.
Keep on the crest to a ledge (III-IV) and then, still on the crest,
reach some dark and lichenous rocks (V) and, finally, the crest of
the S ridge. 4-5hr from the hut
Descend as for Route 232.
AD Another good climb in this region, shorter and easier than the others
described. Mostly III, 350m of climbing.
From the Oberaletsch hut cross the Oberaletsch glacier onto the
Beich glacier passing S of Pt 2588m, to the foot of a couloir
descending from the gap N of the summit of the Torberg. Climb the
couloir to where it widens then move out of it to the R and go along
terraces (foundations of an old hut) to the slabby foot of the ridge.
1 .5 hr
Climb the R side of a large slab to its upper edge by a crack
system. Follow the upper edge L wards then climb a diedre to the
crest of the ridge. Move up the crest for a few m and then, on the
NW flank, climb some steep cracks to a ramp below a split tower.
Regain the crest via the ramp and climb it to a wall with good holds.
The ridge becomes oriented S and leads easily but excitingly to the
summit. 1 .5 hr, 3hr in all
Descend the N ridge to the gap at its foot and then the couloir
back to the Beich glacier.
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