148-149
J Hiiberlin with J and A Weissenfluh,
An attractive peak with 5 ridges radiating from its summit. It
presents some good climbing in a nice, remote and uncrowned
setting. The traverse, in conjunction with the Diste1horn, is a
particularly good outing.
PD First ascent party in descent
The ordinary route and almost entirely on snow.
From the Oberaletsch hut reach the foot of the S flank W of
Pt 2705m via the Beich glacier. Climb up the middle of the glacier
face (often very crevassed) or near its W edge, the upper slope below
the fore-summit is about 450. A short snow and rock ridge leads to
the true summit. 5-6hr
AD D Hall and M Pallis with A
Michaud,
From the Oberaletsch hut as for Route 225 to the foot of the S
Flank. Gain the ridge at a snow col close to Pt 3282.1m. The ridge is
easy to Pt 3662m, where two abseils are made into a gap to the N.
Avoid a gendarme in the gap and regain the narrow crest which
turns to snow before the summit. 9hr
AD+ J Gallet with J Kalbermatten
and A Miller snr,
Best climbed in combination with Route 224 although it is possible to
reach the col at its foot by branching off the first part of that route.
Basically a snom/ice climb whose difficulty varies with conditions.
From the Oberaletsch hut reach the col at the foot of the ridge by
Route 224. Climb poor rock to a gendarme and then follow the
splendid snow/ice crest to the junction with the E ridge. Climb a
20m high step on the L side (III) then follow the near horizontal
ridge to the summit. 1hr from the col
228
D- A Bonacossa, Miss R Batsford
and U diVallepiana,
A good mixed route with difficulties up to IV- on sound rock.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 224 to 3000m on the glacier
ramp. Slant up W and pass between two s6rac bands to the foot of
the ridge. Get onto the ridge at a shoulder near Pt 3291m, above a
high step which terminates in the glacier. If the glacier is too
crevassed above the ramp continue up it towards the Sattellicka
then turn SW and eventually descend slightly to reach the shoulder.
3hr
Climb a few small steps interspersed with snow, to a distinct
steepening. Just before this traverse three gendarmes (IV-) then
climb the step direct (III). The ridge turns to snow and leads to a
junction with the NNE ridge 60m from the summit. Climb a 20m
high step on the L (III) then the horizontal ridge to the summit.
4-5hr, 7-8hr in all
Along with the Distelberg and Torberg, this mountain presents
some very good rock climbing in the region of the Oberaletsch hut.
The rock is impeccable granite.
PD First ascent party
A good glacier expedition which makes a nice training climb.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 224 until below the narrow
glacier on the E flank. Climb the L-hand of two couloirs for 50m
(unpleasant unless snow filled) then traverse S to a stone-covered
terrace on the E side of the Distelberg. Climb NW to the glacier and
go up it (some big crevasses), with a steep section for 100m, to the
saddle between the Wysshorn and Pt 3625m. Reach the summit in a
few minutes from here. 4 hr
TD- A Anliker, C Blum, R Schifferliand
H Schneider,
81 Highly recommended, the climb takes a direct line to the summit. 350m
of climbing, mostly IV-V with a bit of V+ and some aid.
From the Oberaletsch hut cross the Oberaletsch glacier NW to
Pt 2550m. Climb the moraine to the foot of the E ridge of Pt 3325m
(Ober Torberg) or ascend a deep couloir further L (which can be
followed, unpleasantly, as a means of reaching the summit of the
Torberg). Move out R before it narrows and then climb NNE to the
foot of the same ridge. Now climb NW up the Distel glacier,
passing the foot of the E ridge of the Sud Wysshorn, to the foot of
theface.2V2hr
Start directly below the summit at a 50mhigh trapezoid slab.
Climb a dibdre on the R side of the slab to a poor belay. Continue up
the dibdre then move 10m R when possible to a piton belay (V+,
A1). A few m above the belay traverse 15m R into a couloir which
widens below. Climb this for several pitches (V to start) to where it
widens to a funnel and becomes less steep under the steep summit
wall. Traverse 40mR climbing gradually to a distinct rib. Cross
another couloir and climb the next rib to a gap and hence to the
summit. 8-9hr
148-149