146-147
K Schulz with A Burgener and J Ritter,
This mountain forms the W end of the great glaciated N flank of the
Aletschhorn and has no real character of its own. It is best climbed
in combination with a traverse of the Aletschhorn. The N flank is
frequently swept by avalanche after fresh snow.
PD
From the Oberaletsch hut climb the Oberaletsch glacier to the S
foot of the mountain. Climb up E of Pt 3116.6m to a shoulder and
then NE up a snow ridge to where it merges into rock. Scramble up
the rock to a gap in the ridge 100m SE of the summit. The rock
ridge leads to the summit. About 5hr
TD-- K Ochsner
solo,
The W wall is a large rocky buttress overlooking the head of the
Listschental and is bounded on the R by the broad snow couloir leading to
the Sattellicha. The route starts R of centre and takes a direct line up the
front of the buttress in a 600 m long, narrow couloir (3-6m wide). The
first ascent was made in very snowy conditions in70 min. It is mostly 45.
500 with one section of550 and some mixed climbing. Above this there is
a 200m slope to the summit. A summer ascent in 1990 found ice up to 80.
And rock difficulties of III-IV with some stone fall.
AD L and M Dufour,
80 A good approach for a traverse of the Aletschhorn but avoid it after fresh
snow.
From the Hollandia hut walk down to the Lotschenhicke and the
foot of the ridge. Climb the rocks, or snow on the L, and the snow
slopes above to the summit. 2-3 hr
D J Gallet
with J Kalbermatten and A Milller
snr,
80 Viewed from the Hollandia hut this looks like a ridge. It is in reality a
steepish face about500m high cut by crevasses and siracs which leads to
a point about400m E of the summit. Avoid after fresh snow. 4-5 hr
223
PD First ascent party
79 Used in descent or on the traverse to the Aletschhorn.
From the summit of the Sattelhorn follow the snow crest, quite
narrow in places, as far as Pt 3629m. A short but steep snow ridge
leads to the summit of the K1Aletschhorn. Easy slopes lead to the
col E of this summit. A descent from here via Route 214 can be
made to the Oberaletsch hut or continue the traverse by this route.
H Jos6 with A Walden
and C Zurbriggen,
An unimportant summit which nevertheless provides one
worthwhile climb. It is usually traversed along with the Schinhorn.
AD+ J Gallet,
J Kalbermatten and A Miller snr,
From the Oberaletsch hut climb up the Oberaletsch glacier under
the Distelberg until N of Pt 2733m. Continue up a vague glacier
ramp to about 3000 m then turn W up crevassed slopes to the E foot
of the mountain. Turn N to below a depression in the ridge 150m
NE of the snow dome (Pt 3618m). Climb easy rocks and a short but
steep snow slope to the ridge. If the slope above 3000m is too
crevassed, continue up the ramp towards the Sattellicka and turn W
to below the depression in the ridge.
A short snow ridge leads to a 30m high vertical step. Climb a
detached flake for 3m then make a big detour R and climb to the top
of the step by projecting rocks (IV, piton). Keep to the snowy N
side of the ridge over the snow dome and then on the crest with
some nice climbing to the summit. 5-6 hr
Descend the SW ridge to the marked gap at its foot, the last
step being turned on the E side. From here it is possible to descend
steep snow slopes to regain the line of ascent, but it is preferable to
continue by Route 227 over the Schinhorn.
146-147