C Grove and C Townley with F Graf and L Zurbrticken, 29 Aug 1886
A rarely visited summit which may gain some interest with the
opening of hut accommodation at Miirjela.
AD SE ridge: C Blumand L Matter, June 1968. SW flank: first ascent
party
From Mirjela cross the Grosser Aletsch glacier and climb the slopes
of Olme at least 300mN of Pt 2443.2m. Continue up grassy slopes
to a terrace below Pt 2726m. Move R and climb as high as possible
up a couloir in the first step of the SE ridge, where short grassy
cracks lead to easier ground. Carry on up the ridge to just below
Pt 3211mwhere, at a gap, it is necessary to move onto the SW flank.
Keep as close to the crest as possible over various rock towers,
the last few before the summit are past on the L. A crack on the SW
side permits access to the summit itself. 7hr
Cross the crest to the W summit and descend S to the edge of
a couloir. Descend into the couloir but climb out again as soon as
possible on the W side and continue the descent alongside the deep
couloir to about 2800m. Follow a terrace towards the foot of the SE
ridge, with a short ascent at the end, to regain the route of ascent.
About 5hr, 12hr in all
TBrowne with P Bohren and P Schlegel,
An unimportant summit facing the Konkordia hut across the
Grosser Aletsch glacier. It is sometimes included in a traverse of the
Aletschhorn. The N face provides some good ice-climbing for the N
face novice. The rock on the ridges is loose in places.
PD E flank: first ascent party
80 The climb can be done in either direction but is described here starting
from the Konkordia hut. Late in the season it may be preferable to climb
the NE ridge in its entirety (PD).
From the Konkordiahut cross the Grosser Aletsch glacier SW to
the N foot of Drittes Dreieck (2951.9m). Climb up rubble and
snow, keeping this point on your L, to reach the unnamed glacier
on the E flank ofthe mountain. Climb it to the snowy shoulder
above Pt 3541m on the NE ridge. Continue up the ridge (steep
snow/ice and easy rock) to the summit. 5-6hr
Descend the W ridge to the Aletschioch. 30min. It is usual to
continue to the summit of the Aletschhorn by Route 217 but
descent can be made to the Mittelaletsch bivouac hut by this route.
D C Blum and L Matter,
80 Similar climbing is possible on both the N and NW faces, the two being
separated by the NNW ridge (which is AD). Both faces are, in effect,
steep glacier slopes with variable sirac bands. The angle ofeach rises to a
maximum ofabout 55o. Numerous variations ofthe line described are
possible.
Reach the foot of the face from the Konkordia hut by crossing
Konkordiaplatz and climbing steepening snow slopes to a height of
about 3000m. Climb up to the L of rocks protruding from the ice
then traverse R above them. Fairly easy slopes lead to a s6rac zone
which is climbed to steeper slopes. Go up these until forced Rwards
onto the NNW ridge from where it is relatively easy to reach the NE
ridge and the summit. 5-7hr
140-141