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A rocky peak at the end of the S ridge of the Lauterbrunnen
Breithorn. The rock is quite slabby and forms a saw-toothed crest
that gives an entertaining climb and makes a good approach to the S
ridge of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn itself. All the difficulties are
N of the Pt 3119.1m.
AD
There are pitches of III, mostly on good rock but a little loose in places.
The climb can be accomplished in a day from Fafleralp.
From Fafleralp follow a path to Guggistafel (1933m) and then turn
N and follow traces of track on the SE flank to gain the ridge called
Gugginburst. Climb this to reach rock then follow the ridge quite
easily to the Pt 3119.1m. 4hr
Continue along the ridge (about 50m of descent) and contour
round an impossible section on the W side before reaching the
summit. Lots of small teeth are now encountered before arriving at
the Burstsattel (3165m, neither name nor height marked on the
map), just before which a split gendarme is turned on the W side.
3hr, about 7hr in all
If returning to Fafleralp it is probably best to retrace the route
from the summit although it is possible to descend from the
Burstsattel(see description of Route 190). To continue on the S
ridge of the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn see Route 190.
W Hawker with H Feuz and C and U Lauener,
An attractive snow dome dominating the view from the Mutthorn
hut. It has some short pleasant routes which might be attractive to
the alpine novice.
197 SOUTH FLANK
PD First ascent party
75 From the Mutthorn hut climb snow slopes SW to the col at 3122m.
Follow the snow slopes below the SW ridge to a broad snow-filled
couloir in the S flank. From Fafleralp reach the same place by
climbing the path up the Uistertal and the snow slopes on the W
side of the Chrindelspitza to reach the Usser glacier. Climb this to
the foot of the couloir.
The couloir is subject to stonefall but in good conditions it can
be climbed quickly to the col at its top. Otherwise climb easy rocks
on the E side and finally a snow slope to reach the crest of the SW
ridge a little above the col. The ridge leads easily to the summit.
3-4hr from the hut, 5-6hr from Faf1eralp
198 SOUTH-WEST
RIDGE
AD K Blodig and
75 The climb follows the SW ridge in its entirety from the saddle at 3214m
and traverses the Chlys Tsingelhorn.
AD
The climb takes the E side of the couloir leading to the col betwen the
Chlys Tsingelhorn and the main summit. An alternative route to the col
takes the diagonal line across the face of the Chlys Tsingelhorn.
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