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192 NORTH FACE:
NORTH-NORTH-WEST SPUR
TD
78 A mixed rock and ice climb with much less in the way ofobjective
dangers than the face itself Highly recommended in good conditions (dry
rock on the lower spur, consolidated snow in the middle part and, most
importantly, good snowlice on the upper mixed section which is by far the
hardest part). There is some strac fall danger on the lower part of the
route. It would make a good introduction to the more serious N walls in
the Oberland. The rock is mainly III with bits oflV and the ice is 55.
with one pitch of 60 degree.
From the Schmadrihut a track leads SW to the Breithorn glacier.
Cross this and climb it to the foot of the spur on the R side of the
steep glacier bay below the N face. Climb the rib to a steep narrow
snow terrace which is followed to the R to within 40m of the s6racs.
Climb a corner then make a rising traverse R below a rock wall and
above the ice cliffs. Now, below another set of seracs, climb the
rock wall and then traverse L (mixed) to pass the seracs by their L
edge.
Follow a snow/ice slope to mixed ground which is climbed or
avoided on steep snow/ice on the R, until one is forced onto an icy
ribbon L of the rib crest. This leads to the summit ridge. 8-10hr
from the foot of the spur.
193 NORTH FACE:
ED1
78 H Kallen, Jan 1973
Relatively popular at one time, this route suffers from some very poor
rock and there is considerable danger from rock fall especially low on the
route. Nowhere is the rock very difficult but good protection is not easy to
arrange. Possibly best attempted in winter conditions nowadays.
From the Schmadri hut reach the glacier bay at the foot of the face
by Route 192. Climb the L side of this bay then move L onto a ramp
line cutting the bounding buttress (the ramp can be reached easily
from Route 194). From the ramp follow a slabby couloir to its
narrowing then trend R and cross the rock band above by a gully
(delicate). Move up R to another rock band which is crossed to the
lower L edge of a steep ice band.
On the L is a rib which is cut by a chimney/couloir, climb it to
a ledge slanting R. The route now keeps more or less to the rib line
over mixed terrain to the summit. 10-14hr from the bay
194 NORTH FACE:
NORTH-NORTH-EAST SPUR
TD D Chervet
and R Richardet,
78 The first and probably best route on the N side of the mountain. Quite
serious but not subiect to the objective dangers of the Welzenbach route.
The first ascent party joined the route described at the foot of the upper
part of the spur. This variation is still popular, but by climbing the lower
spur the standard is better maintained throughout. Difficulties on rock
are no more than III but it is friable. The difficulties lie on the mixed
ground or on the rock sections when they are snow covered or verglassed.
Slow parties will not avoid a bivouac. See also photo 77
From the Schmadri hut follow Route 192 to the foot of the buttress
on the E side of the face. Three ribs rise from here. Climb easily up
the central one to where the rock changes from gneiss to limestone.
Now climb a short vertical crack (III-) and a smooth diddre (III-) to
a large overhang. Make a long rising traverse L on debris covered
ledges and up short steps, and take the first opportunity to climb up
past the overhang. Continue straight up on slabs (III, pitons) and
then R wards to reach the crest of the spur. Climb this (snow) onto
the glacier slope above and then to the foot of the upper part of the
spur.
The whole of this lower part can be avoided by crossing the
Breithorn glacier to the N foot of the Warmietenhoren (2849m) and
climbing the snow coombe on its W side, which narrows to a
couloir, to the col to its S (some icefall danger). Alternatively climb
more directly to the col from the E side of the Wilrmietenh6ren
(icefall danger). Both ways are fairly easy and can be climbed
quickly. From the col follow the base of a rock step SE to a steep
snow couloir which is climbed (or the rocks on its L) to by-pass the
obstacle. A second rock step is climbed by a short steep rib on the R
before the glacier is reached. Climb this SW to the foot of the upper
spur.
Climb over the bergschrund, then directly up the ice slope for
about 60m and then get onto the rock on the R (gneiss again).
Follow the spur to the summit. 8-12hr
D J Gallet
with G and J Kalbermatten and J Rubin,
78 A very good route on good rock but not easy to reach. It can be climbed
from the Breithomioch (not named on LK but reached by the alternative
start to Route 194) or more easily from the Schmadrijoch. Ifapproaching
from the Sa bivouac at the Zen hindri Ligg is recommended. See also
photo 77
Reach the Schmadrijoch by Route 188 or 189. Start up the ridge but
avoid the first rocks on the N side and get back onto the ridge by a
chimney. Descend a short steep wall to a gap then go easily over Pt
3386m. Descend from here to the Breithornjoch (not marked) and
then climb on the crest to Pt 3471m, the last step being avoided on
the S side. Keep to the almost horizontal snow crest (cornices) and
reach the bottom of a 70m high step. Climb most of this on the crest
(III+) but move onto the S flank for the last part. A narrow snow
ridge leads first to the E and subsequently to the main summit.
2-4hr, 6-8hr from the Schmadri hut, 8-10hr from Fafleralp
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