130-131
Lauterbrunnen Breithorn 3784.9m
E von Fellenberg with J Bischoff, P Egger, P Infibnit and P Michel,
CAlmer and C Lauener.
A very attractive mountain which seems quite detached from
surrounding peaks. It has some high-class routes on both rock and
ice. The mountain has three main ridges, each of which is a good
climbin its own right, with reasonably sound rock. It is usual to
combine an ascent of the NE or S ridges with descent of the W
ridge. Of the three faces only the N is of any real interest. It has
some of the most serious climbing on the whole of the
Lauterbrunnen wall on account of the stone fall danger.
190 SOUTH RIDGE
D- Mrs and G Murray with A
Supersaxo,
A demanding yet interesting route that is best achieved in combination
with a traverse of the Burstspiza, although it is possible to gain the ridge
atPt3165m(Burstsattel). TherearepitchesoflII.
From Fafleralp follow Route 196 over the Burstspiza to the
Burstsattel. Alternatively walk up the Inners Tal to a height of
about 2300m. Climb NE, up loose stony ground and a small couloir,
to the moraine to the SE of the Inner Tal glacier. The couloir can be
avoided a few m on its L (NW) side. Climb to the top of the moraine
and from there up to the Burstsattel. Shr
From the saddle, sustained but not too difficult climbing
leads to the top of Pt 3656m (3-4hr). There is now a 100m descent
before the final climb to the summit. Go down the ridge until it
becomes impossible. Abseil 25m to a ledge on the W side. Leave
this by a (usually) snowy couloir to a gap. Follow a narrow overhung
ledge on the W side then turn a gendarme on the E side. Make
another abseil (30m) on the W side and reach the narrow snow crest
at the low point.
Climb the rock barrier diagonally R to L to reach an obvious
way ahead. Climb up some slabs to the final snow slopes that lead,
steeply at first, to the summit. 3-4hr, 11-13hr in all, 2hr longer over
the Burstspiza
191 WEST RIDGE
AD- First ascent party
78 A very good climb and highly recommended with difficulties of III-. It is
not advisable to try to climb to, or descend from, the Wetterliiche from the
S chmadri hut as the Wetterlitchen glacier can be quite complex. However
If you have done one of the N face routes you will probably not mind
making a descent from here.
From the Mutthorn hut climb to the Petersgrat and contour under
the S face of the Tschingelhorn to the Wetterlticke (3181m). This
can be approached from Fafleralp by following Route 190 to the
Inner Tal glacier and then take a curving line up it to the col in
4-5hr.
Pass to the R of the first rocks on the ridge and reach a gap up
snow slopes. Traverse 20m on slabby rocks on the same side then
move up to the crest. Keep to the ridge over Pt 3403m to the foot of
two rock steps. Climb these direct or traverse to a diadre on the S
side and climb this to the crest to avoid the first step. Traverse R
again and climb short steps and a short vertical chimney to avoid the
second. A final obstacle can also be avoided on the R before a snow
crest, which can have a large cornice, leads to the summit. 4-5hr
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