128-129
184 NORTH-WEST RIDGE TO
TD- H Lauper and M Liniger,
76 A fairly interesting climb; the rock changes from granite to limestone to
gneiss as the ridge is ascended. It becomes progressively steeper as it
approaches the Wsummit and some of the rock is loose.
From the Schmadri hut get onto the start of the ridge (large granite
blocks) and climb easily to Pt 2746m. Continue up the steeper crest
(limestone) and then snow to a step (gneiss) which is climbed on the
crest. The final and steepest section of the ridge can be climbed
direct (IV+) by a smooth wall a few metres R of the crest to a small
platform. From here rejoin the crest by slanting up L in cracks and
chimneys. The alternative is to traverse La little onto the N face
and get back onto the crest via a chimney/couloir. A succession of
short steps lead to the W summit. 7hr
185 TRAVERSE FROM WEST TO
TD Although infrequently climbed the rock is good. In descent several abseils
76 are necessary.
From the W summit turn a rock spike on the S side and reach a gap
below a vertical step. Climb 30m slanting R on the S side (III) to a
sloping belay (piton) below a 25m high vertical wall. Start up the
wall (V, pitons) then traverse L to a diedre which is followed
(pi-tons) until it can be left on the L to reach a flat belay on the ridge
crest below another vertical step (abseil piton). Climb less steep
rock on the N side then follow the exposed crest (III) to the final
snow crest. 2hr
186 NORTH
FACE (F
TD+ K Grater and F Villiger,
76 The difficulties on the route depend mainly on the amount of ice build-up
on the rocks. In lean conditions the route is quite unsafe.
From the Schmadrihut follow Route 187 until at about half-height
on the N face. Now climb steep snow/ice and the rocks above fairly
directly to the summit. It is also possible to follow a line further to
the W. 10-15hr
187 NORTH
FACE
TD
76 Winter:
H von Klinel and H Miller,
Direct finish:
Route described:
The route described is more direct than the original Welzenbach route and
is more frequently climbed. The route is essentially an ice climb of fairly
constant angle but with two steeper pitches (550-600), and is relatively
safe. There is a direct finish, and some other options which can be taken
according to conditions. On 27July 1959 K Diemberger and M Eiselin
climbed the face by a line further E.
From the Schmadrihut climb E up the Vordre Schmadri glacier to
the steep narrow glacier at the foot of the face. Climb the glacier
slope (often several bergschrunds which can be avoided by rocks on
the L at II-III) to reach the shallow ice couloir descending from the
summit. Climb this until below a rock barrier at about 3200m. Pass
this by a traverse L in an icy gully (steep). Now, close to the rocks,
reach the upper ice slope and climb this to the summit rock wall.
Keep L of this and, still on ice, reach the summit. 8-15hr
This minor summit offers the possibility of some entertainment
when higher summits are out of condition. It is quite easily reached
from Fafleralp. The N ridge is D, quite exposed and with some
doubtful rock. The SE ridge is PD and well worth climbing, whilst
the SW ridge is AD and highly recommended (some III+).
Approach all the routes via Route 176. For the SW ridge
climb up the coombe between the SW and SE ridges and join the
ridge at a point E of the snow patch under the S face, by a tricky
couloir. Allow 5-6hr from Fafleralp for all the routes.
First traverse: J Hornby, F Morshead and T Philpott with
J Anderegg and C Lauener, 4 Aug 1866
Of no great value as a pass but it provides a means of descent for
routes on the Grosshorn N face, access to the W ridge of this
mountain and to the NE ridge of the Breithorn.
AD
77 From the Schmadri hut climb the latera1moraine on the E side of
the glacier which descends W of the hut (Hindre Schmadri glacier),
until it is possible to walk onto the glacier. Climb S towards the
lowest rock outcrop. Go up a steep snow slope to the R of this and L
of a curving rock rib, and then up rocks to avoid the sieracs of the
upper branch of the glacier. Continue by climbing part way up an
icy couloir between the rocks and the s6rac barrier before quitting
this for the rocks on the L which lead to the less steep upper part of
the glacier. Reach the col by moving R. 4hr
It is sometimes possible to move R before the icy couloir and
climb steep snow slopes further W.
PD
From Fafleralp follow the path from Guggistafel to Pt 2108m. Now
climb N up the valley and at about 2200m go up a couloir, then
brocken rocks, to reach scree slopes below the W flank of
Jegichnubel. Climb up parallel to the base of the rocks of the
Jegichnubel until above the
Zem hindri Ligg. Now traverse the glacier NW to the col. 5-6hr
128-129