126-127
179 NORTH-WEST
FACE
TD+
The lower part (about 500m) of the face is a steep snowfield tapering
towards the top between icy rock ribs. The upper rock wall has an
obvious pillar and the route takes the R side of this. Most of the
difficulties are on mixed terrain but there is rock of IV-V with poor
protecuon.
From the Schmadrihut follow Route 178 onto the glacier, but cross
this E wards, climbing slightly, and cross the Schmadririgg at about
2600m to reach the
of the wall.
Climb to the highest bergschrund and cross it more or less in
the summit fall-line. Climb the snow/ice slope above into the narrow
section to reach the upper rocks. Climb the pillar using ribs slanting
L to R up it. Two overhangs are turned on the R by the edge of the
pillar. From the top of the pillar a snow ridge with a few rocks leads
to the summit. 10hr
180 NORTH
RIDGE
D J Gallet with J Kalbermatten
and C Kaufmann,
A short but interesting climb with one pitch of lV.
From the Hollandia hut follow Route 170 but leave this to reach the
Abeni Flue-Joch. Climb the snow and rock ridge to the summit.
About 4 hr
PD First ascent party
From the Hollandia hut climb the Abeni Fluefirn (crevassed at first
on the steeper section) along the obvious ramp to below the
Anujoch. Climb to the col (3635m) by a short but steep snow slope.
Climb the ridge, mainly snow and narrow in places, to the fore-
summit. Rocks between the fore-summit and main summit are
delicate if verglassed. 2-3hr
It is possible to climb the Anungrat all the way from the
Hollandia hut. It is D and about 4hr to the Anujoch.
29 July 1875
Main Summit: E Burckhardt and O Schifferdecker with J Rubin,
P Schlegel and K Schlunegger, 12 Aug 1885
A splendid, remote summit with three distinct ridges and a
prominent subsidiary top to the W. The S ridge is mainly snow and
offers the easiest route. The NE, between the summit and the
Grossioch, has three steep and quite difficult steps and is rarely
climbed (D). The ridge linking the main and W summits is also not
often climbed but is described here. The most important feature of
the mountain is its 1200m high N face on which there are some
quite demanding ice routes.
F First ascent party
From Fafleralp or the Hollandia hut follow Route 176 onto the
Anun glacier and from there reach the col, Zemhindri Ligg
(3018m), by a steep and partly rocky couloir. Now follow the ridge
N to the summit. The last section, between a fore-summit at 3567m
and the main summit, is very narrow. About 8hr from Fafleralp and
5hr from Hollandia
183 WEST RIDGE TO
PD First ascent party to this summit
From the Schmadrijoch, reached by Routes 188 or 189, climb the
steep snow and rock ridge to about 3350m, where the angle eases
and a snow ridge leads to the W summit at 3671m. Avoid any
difficulties on the S side. 3hr
126-127