124-125
174 NORTH
RIDGE
D J Farrar and Miss F Wills with P Almer snr and jnr and P Boss,
74
A very fine snowlice ridge up to 500. The route avoids the rocks forming
the lower part of the ridge although these can be climbed at a higher
grade.
From the Rottal hut cross the glacier and climb up it on the W side
of the ridge, avoiding crevasses on the R. Cross the bergschrund
and climb the snow lice slope on the W flank of the ridge to reach the
crest near the last rocks. From here the ridge is steep and narrow
until it merges with a bulging glacier slope which leads to the
summit. 7-8 hr
AD D Chervet
and M Etienne,
The best climb on the S side of the mountain. It was descended two years
prior to its first ascent.
From the Hollandia hut traverse horizontally NE to below
Pt 3463m. Climb a snow/scree couloir towards the gap between the
last two gendarmes on the ridge until just below the crest. Move L
and climb rocks to the top of the gendarme (Pt 3463m). Keep to the
crest as far as Pt 3716.6m.
A steepening snow crest leads to the S summit (3928m) then
easier angled snow is followed to the main summit. 5hr
C Montadon, A Ringier and A Rubin, 19 Aug 1878
This is a fairly undistinguished mountain, quite easily reached from
the Hollandia hut. It has a steep, glaciated and fairly remote S face
whilst its N face forms part of the Lauterbrunnen wall. The climbs
on the N face are less frequented than those on other parts of the
wall.
176 SOUTH
FLANK
AD T Danby and H Reade with T Kalbermatten,
Fairly infrequently climbed but it has some interesting glacier terrain.
From the Hollandia hut descend the Lang glacier to the flat Grossi
Tola, then pass under Pt 2800m to Chrumme Rigg and get onto the
flat part of the Anun glacier. This same position can be reached
from Fafleralp by following the path leading to the N side of the
Lang glacier and up the SSE ridge of Jegichnubel. Where the path
disappears get onto the Anun glacier and climb its W side to the flat
central section.
Climb as direct as possible to the fore-summit by the glacier
slopes on the W side of the Anujoch. About 4hr from the hut, 6hr
from Fafleralp.
177 WEST RIDGE
AD H Dtibiwith
F Fuchs and F Graf snr,
The easiest route from the N side. Good rock in remote surroundings.
From the Schmadri hut get onto the Vordre Schmadri glacier and
cross it E wards before climbing up it SE to gain the foot of the W
ridge (this is the ridge whose top is Pt 3753.6m).
Climb the ridge on the crest with just the occasional detour on
the N side (II, III). From the top of the ridge the summit is easily
reached by the snow ridge over the W summit (narrow in places).
7hr
178 NORTH FACE OF
ED1 P Zafiropule
with H Sthhli,
The face had been climbed earlier by a less direct line (H Kiene, 7July
1976). The route starts up the Schmadririgg and is 750m high,
steepening as it rises. The lower part is about 500 with mixed sections up
to 600, whilst the upper part is about 600 with mixed climbing up to 800
Most ref the difficulties are in the mixed sections which require climbing in
crampons at V and V+ in places.
From the Schmadrihut cross the moraine and pass under the N wall
of the Grosshorn L wards up the Vorder Schmadri glacier. At about
3000m get onto and go up the Schmadririgg to its end.
Start by climbing diagonally L wards up a 500 snow slope to a
rock rib. Climb a gully slanting L, then go straight up the rib and
again L to its edge before finally moving back R to its top. Climb
the snowfield above moving slightly L to the next rocks.
Get into an ice couloir and climb it for 10m then move L on
steep mixed ground to a stance. Climb steep rocks moving L wards
to reach the final steep wall. Climb one pitch, 10m towards to a rib
then 20m straight up to a vertical section, where a traverse R is
made to a small snow rib before moving up a few more m to a good
stance on the L edge of a snow couloir. Traverse 5 m into the couloir
then go up it, keeping on the L side, to exit via rocks at the top onto
the summit ice field. Climb the gradually easing slope direct to the
W summit (3835m). 9-12hr
124-125