100-101
H Harrer, A Heckmair, F Kasparek and I Vorg, 21-24 July 1938.
After the much publicised exploits of
the 1930s this face has become
the best known of all the Alpine N faces. Usually referred
to as the
Eigerwand, it now has about 20 routes
if the NE face is included.
A11the routes are serious.
It is still possible to find new lines to climb on the face
although they are only ever likely to be attempted in
winter
conditions. One of the most
outstanding of these was climbed (solo)
in March 1991 by Jeff Lowe. He took a very direct line
on the R of
the Harlin route requiring
seven days to complete and was given the
name, Metanoia. It is
mostly free but contains one pitch graded A5.
ED2 G Hopfgartner and M Piola, 13-16 Aug 1979. Winter: N Joss and
64 K Ochsner, 12-16 Feb 1981
1 The climb has good rock in its upper part but is sometimes loose
elsewhere. There is some rock fall danger. The climb starts at a large scree
slope at the bottom of the face.
128 THE SANCTION
ED3 D Anker and M Piola, 5-7 May 1988
2 1000 m of ascent from the foot of the face. All equipment left in place by
the first ascent party. It is an impressive and exposed climb which is
difficult to retreat from after the 7th pitch. Variable rock quality, good
stances. Carry water.
129 NORTH CORNER
ED3 C and H Howald and M Riledi, 26-27 Aug 198 1
64 1200 m of ascent from the foot of the face. It has some very demanding
3 free climbing with only a few pitches requiring aid. It has loose rock in
places and at times poor protection.
ED3/4 R Ghilini and M Piola, 26-30 July 1983
64 Another very demanding route directly up the overhanging pillar of the
4 Rotefluh(graded by PiolaABO inf, ABO = abominable). There is
1400m of climbing on which protection is often difficult to place. Retreat
is very difficult after the 2nd bivouac. The rock is mostly compact so there
is little danger of stone fall. The 2nd, 3rd and 5th bivouacs are 1 person
sized, the 2nd and 4th have water. The start is up easy but loose ground
directly below the impressive yellow wall of the Rotefluh. The most
obvious landmark is the railway entrance sited on the R-hand edge of one
of the last snowfields below the Rotefluh. It is important to identify this
in case of retreat.
ED3/4 D Haston,
64 help from J Harlin, C Bonington, L Kor, D Whillans, K Golikow,
P Haag, R Rosenzopf
and G Schnaidt, 23 Feb-
The route takes a very direct and fairly obvious line up the N face and
was the scene of a great deal of media attention during the first ascent
when John Harlin was so tragically killed. There is good rock to the
Spider but it is bad above this. In summer the stone fall danger makes the
climb unjustifiable (although it has been climbed in this season) and so it
is usually only attempted in winter, or in cold autumn weather, when the
rock is covered with a few cm of ice. Belays in the rock sections are in
place but otherwise there is no fixed gear. The first ascent was achieved
by "expedition style" climbing but the route has had "alpine style"
ascents and done in this fashion a party starting at night (recommended)
should be able to reach the Death Bivouac in one day. Descent in the
event of bad weather is by abseil straight down the line of ascent.
See also photo 65
Start directly below the gallery windows. Climb 700 ice for about
30m and then move L for 10m before climbing more steep ice (70.
80 degree) for 25m. A snowfield (506) leads up for about 250m to a narrow
ice couloir (750) on the L of the rock buttress. Climb this and then
traverse R over poorly iced slabs (III+) to a stance on a snow slope.
More steep ice (750-856), at first slightly L wards and then straight
up leads in about 35m to a bolt belay. Move L on steep ice to an
iced-up corner and climb this (vertical) to the next ice slope (15min
all). Now climb 60-70m up 500 ice which then steepens (600 but
with some steeper steps) for about another 130m to below the
gallery windows and the First Rock Band.
Climb up R of the gallery for 25m (A3) to belay in slings at a
bolt stance. Continue straight up using aid for about 10m, then
traverse R (6-7m) into a diedre which is climbed for 10m before
moving R again (6-7m) to below a smooth bulge which is climbed to
another belay in slings (A3). Now climb a strenuous overhang above
the stance, and then more easily to another stance in slings at the top
of the First Band (30m, A3). Climb steep ice (706) with a few bulges
for 20m, then more ice with the odd bulge leads to a stance on a slab
in another 35m. Difficult mixed ground straight up for about 12m
exits onto a snowfield which is climbed for one pitch to the second
bivouac (ice cave).
(If the climb is being done 'alpine style' it is more logical to
climb the First Rock Band by moving 50m R of the gallery windows
just round a bulge. Two aid pitches are followed by a pitch of steep
mixed climbing to an easy traverse back L to the First Ice field.)
Climb the First Ice field for about 90m and then traverse R at
its top before moving back L wards into a poor crack which leads
into a prominent gully system in the Second Band (45m). Climb a
crack (about 12m) then traverse R on snow for 30mbefore climbing
a gully above on poor snow with some ice steps. On the L of the
stance is a 15m chimney: climb this (crux of the Second Band, V+,
IV) and then traverse L on steep ice (30m) to gain the top of the
Second Band and the third bivouac (ice cave).
The next pitch is on steep ice above the arete at the top of the
Second Band and leads to below the L side of the Flatiron (45m).
Traverse R under the base of the Flatiron for about 60m and then
climb the Second Ice field, mainly on snow, for about 160m. Now
traverse R on snow for 60m before climbing a vertical crack
(common with 1938 Route) to an ice pitch and belay (30m in all).
Continue on poor ice to the top of the Flatiron (about 50m) then
traverse L (about 90m) to its crest and the Death Bivouac.
Go round the corner from the bivouac and straight up the
Third Ice field (hard water-ice) to its top (75m). Mixed ground leads
onto the crest of the rib which leads to the Central Pillar (V+, 35m).
Go up the crest to a stance on the R side of the Central Pillar.
Traverse L on aid to a bolt and sling stance at the L end of the
Central Pillar (sustained A3, 35m). This section is the Kor Traverse
which can be negotiated with just one point of aid in snow less
conditions. A line of holds leads across and slightly down the wall
until it is possible to tension diagonally L (6m) to reach a flake and
another line of holds leading to the end of the traverse. Sustained
climbing on thin ice up a groove (35m) and then an ice trough (25m)
leads to the top of the pillar.
A narrow neck connects the pillar to the main face. Go along
this for 10m and then climb a crack system starting in a roof to a
bolt and sling stance (sustained A2, 45m). Continue straight up
using mixed aid and free climbing for 30m (A2 and V). Traverse R
into some icy grooves and climb these to the foot of the rib at the
bottom of the Spider (35m). Go up the Spider to the start of a
traverse line leading out of its R side (65m). Traverse R for three
pitches on mixed ground to the Fly. Climb this to its top L corner.
Three more pitches on mixed, loose ground lead to the foot of
a prominent chimney system (sustained IV and V). Climb the
chimney in two pitches to an awkward stance (V, V+, steps of Al).
Go up to the overhang behind the stance and traverse R to the foot
of a chimney (V, V+, steps of A1, 40m). Climb the chimney (12m)
then move diagonally L on icy slabs to a poor stance at the foot of a
L ward sloping diagonal fault (V+, 40m). Climb the fault on mixed
ground to its end (V, 40m). Move back R and up for 30m on icy
slabs (V+) and then climb the summit ice field for 90m on water-ice.
Pass to the L of a rock bulge and go straight up to the summit
(45m). Allow about 3 days
100-101