98-99
C
A mountain known by name to the general public probably better
than any other peak in the
recent years many more routes have been added to
this face and
some will be described here. However the Eiger is not all about the
N wall, there are other good climbs but the ordinary route on
the
SW flank is not one of these.
125 SOUTH RIDGE
AD G Foster with H Baumann and U Rubi,
Since the installation of the Miinchjoch
hut this route has become
increasingly popular and rightly so. It
is an interesting climb and better
value than the Mittellegi ridge. In
poor conditions it is probably safer to
descend this route than to descend the SW flank
route.
Reach the
Route 124. From here keep to the L of the crest and climb as
high as
possible to a rock outcrop. Traverse L for some way
to a couloir
which is climbed back R wards to the crest (abseil
the outcrop in
descent). Keep to the ridge to its junction with the
SW ridge (few
belays). The rocky towers just below this point are
turned on the L
side. An easy rock ridge leads to the summit.
2V2-3V2hr, allow 7-9hr
from the Monchjoch hut
126 SOUTH-WEST FLANK AND WEST RIDGE
AD First ascent party
Most of the SW flank is like a tiled roof covered in debris.
There are
best line can be difficult to follow especially
in descent, in fog or in the
dark. The tracks zigzag about and in places there
are quite long
traverses. It is advisable to look
very carefully for the
involved in the'Climb for
the World' event in the autumn of 1991
placed many stakes and pitons over the whole length
of the flank and left
them in place as useful belays. With other
parties on the route there is
considerable danger from stonefall. Another disadvantage of this route is
that there is no suitable hut base from which to
make the climb, although
there is hotel accommodation at the Eigergletscher station (with
dormitory). If approaching the latter
on foot from Kl S cheidegg
it is
better to follow the path system than to walk up
the railway track. The
climb is described in ascent and in descent.
From the Eigergletscher station turn
the S foot of the Rotstock
(2663.2m)
on a vague track over debris-covered slabs or snow to
reach the vicinity of the col
between the Rotstock and the SW flank
of the mountain. Climb R wards on slabs and snow to
the foot of the
rocks. Climb the first step via a steep, often
snow-filled, couloir or
on the rocks L of the couloir.
When the angle eases make a rising
traverse L to the ridge and follow this, keeping on
its R flank, to the
next steepening. This
is just below a rock obelisk projecting from
the N face (Kanzeli or Pilz). Make a rising traverse R under the
steep rocks (snow, rock, debris) before returning
to the W ridge at a
saddle. Follow the ridge and reach the summit up a
final
snow/ice slope or the rocks on the L. 6-8hr
In descent there are a number of places where there are fixed
abseil
anchors, but it is probably just as quick to climb
down and so
reduce the risk of dislodging stones on other
parties.
Start by descending a snow lice slope W wards to a levelling.
Abseil anchors (marked in red) indicate the start of a couloir in the S
flank of the W ridge. Go down this, then straight
down for about
100m. Descend slightly L wards for another 100m before turning R
round a rocky projection (more cemented abseil
anchors). Descend
over small steps, snow/ice and debris, directly
to the rib bordering a
couloir on the L (cairn). Get into
the couloir (abseil points) and
descend obliquely R to the level of the rock obelisk
projecting from
the N face. A zigzagging track with several
top of a steep step. Move L wards to a couloir (often snow-filled) and
descend this or the rocks on its R (abseil anchors).
Descend more
easily now on snow and/or slabs until close to the col between the
Rotstock and the SW flank. A track lead round the S
side of the
Rotstock to the Eigergletscher station. 4-5hr
98-99