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EIGER NORTH FACE (Eiger)
132 1938 ROUTE
ED2 First ascent party. Winter:
64 and A Mannhardt, 6-12 March 1961
There can be few alpinists who have nor day-dreamed of climbing the N
wall of the Eiger by this famous route. For most it will always remain a
dream. Those who do climb it often wait for years (20 or more in at least
one case) for the right conditions to make an attempt. The climbing is
easiest when the rock is dry, but in such conditions the danger of rock fall
is higher. If there is a lot of snow on the face, warm conditions lead to
some very wet climbing. Very cold conditions are safest but then the rock
is verglassed and more difficult. Even in a 'dry year', if it is cold, the
rock above the Death Bivouac is likely to be ice-covered where it is
anything less than vertical (Scottish winter IV rather than rock grade
IV). In these condition the harder pitches are likely to be either verglassed
or pouring with very cold water, depending on the time of day (all
Scottish winter V in crampons). In 1991 the first ice field had virtually
disappeared and the second and third were much reduced in size. In all
there is about 1700m of climbing, ice pitches of550-606 and rock up to V.
Most parties will make at least one bivouac although the route has been
climbed in under 5 hr. To minimise objective dangers it is probably
advisable to make a bivouac at the Swallows Nest then have a long day
to the Traverse of the Gods before climbing to the summit on the third
day. Retreat from the face can be very difficult in the event of bad
weather. Autumn appears to be a favoured time to do the climb. Winter
ascents are fairly common and it has now been soloed in winter by a
woman in a single day. Nevertheless it remains a serious undertaking at
all times.
The description given below is for dry conditions. There are many
minor variations, especially below the Wet Cave Bivouac and between
the end of the Second Ice field and Death Bivouac. See also photo 65
Start 200m R of the First Pillar (Pt 2561m) by an inverted and
elongated rock triangle almost surrounded by bands of old snow and
avalanche debris. Climb up an obvious gully/snow slope cutting
through these rocks. Cross the snow band above L wards to the
Entry Chimney. This is a 5m high, L facing corner with a small
white plaque above. Climb the corner exiting R (IV) then traverse
easily R for 100m. Trend L back to a triangular snow slope and
climb this to its top L before trending further L over easy ledges
with occasional awkward moves (small
Shattered Pillar. Move up R towards the Rote flue aiming for a small
metal box which is 15m up and R of the Stollenloch (tunnel
window). The last 20m to the tunnel is IV. There are other
variations to most of this section.
Traverse L for 100m to a short chimney which leads to the
traverse R wards (IV) to the Difficult Crack. Climb this (IV+). A
fixed rope normally hangs down this section. Continue up a little
groove above (20m, IV) and then make a rising traverse L below the
Roteflue for 150m to reach the Hinterstoisser Traverse. Follow the
fixed rope L for 30m, then climb a chimney for 10m and exit L to
the Swallows Nest (small bivouac site). Traverse L to the First
Ice field and climb it for 90m to the rock band separating it from the
Second Ice field. On the R is the Ice Hose. Climb it direct or by
rocks 15m L for 12m (IV) before making a diagonal traverse onto it.
The latter is usually the easier option. Another option is to climb up
diagonally L wards (40m, IV) then traverse R (40m, V). In the lean
conditions that are becoming common the Ice Hose may be merely a
wet/verglassed runnelin which case two further pitches may be
necessary, zigzagging up the wall about 30m L of the Ice Hose (VI,
V+, regular but spaced pitons).
Climb the Second Ice field direct (3-6 pitches depending on
conditions) to its top edge. Now traverse L along the edge to the top
L corner which is about 50mR of the crest of the Flatiron. Climb a
vertical crack (10m, IV, pitons) then traverse L on a ledge for 10m
to a chimney which is climbed (IV) before exiting R. An easier pitch
diagonally L leads to the Death Bivouac at the top of the Flatiron
and below a vertical wall. Now make a rising traverse L across the
Third Ice field to its top edge with a short descent at the far end to
reach the foot of the Ramp.
Climb the Ramp for 150m (IV) to the foot of an icy chimney
or waterfall. Climb this (25m, IV+) or avoid it on the R (VI, Terray
Variation). Continue for 25m to the Ice Bulge. Climb this direct
(10m) or avoid it on the L (IV+, pitons, water washed) to reach a
snow / ice field overlooking the Ramp below. Climb the snow/ice field
trending R to reach a platform at the start of the Brittle Ledges.
These are the key to the upper part of the face and must be taken.
Traverse R for 20m (II) to a crack. Climb this (30m, IV), turning an
overhang on the R, to reach a good bivouac site at the start of the
Traverse of the Gods. Traverse 150m R (III) to the Spider.
Go up the middle of the Spider on its blunt crest to its upper
R edge (130m) to enter the R-hand of two obvious gullies which
slants diagonally L. Climb the gully (IV) for 150m (may be all ice) to
the Quartz Crack. Climb this (IV+), swinging out L at the top
(tension useful), then climb easily for 10m to a traverse line. Follow
this L for 15m to a small terrace (Corti Bivouac, 50m in all from the
foot of the Quartz Crack). Go down L for 6m (fixed rope) to reach
the Exit Chimneys. This shallow wet or icy gully is the L-most and
easiest of several vertical fissures. Climb this for 3 pitches (IV, III if
not ice covered). Turn a rock knoll on its R then climb up rocky
gullies for four pitches (II) to the top of the rib separating the NW
and NE faces.
Two pitches up the summit ice field lead to the crest of the
Mittellegi ridge about 200m from the summit. There are good
bivouac sites along the ridge about 4m down the S side.
20-30hr on average
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