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96-97

Obers Monchf och 3629m

K Rohrdorf and his guide, 27 Aug 1828

The col, just below the M6nchjoch hut, links the Jungfraufirn with

the Ewigschneefild

120 WEST SIDE

F From the Jungfraujoch station entrance (if you can find it from the

railway!) walk out onto the Jungfraufirn (usually a bulldozed track

in the snow to start) and follow the gently inclined snow slopes ENE

to the col. There is some danger of ice falling from the S face of the

M6nch and there are a few crevasses close to the col. 1hr

121 EAST SIDE

F From the Unders Monchjoch reverse Route 122. 45min

Unders Monchf och 3529m

K Rohrdorfand his guide, 27 Aug 1828

The col is the lowest point on the ridge between the Monch and the

Gross Fiescherhorn. It provides a means of access to the Bergli hut.

122 SOUTH SIDE

F From the Obers Monchioch descend into the snowy coombe at the

head of the Ewigschneeflild and follow the slopes NW to the col.

30min

123 NORTH SIDE

F From the Bergli hut climb the rock ridge, turning to snow, that is

behind the hut and then by a steep snow slope reach the col (there

are often wide crevasses in this section and there can be soft snow on

ice. There have been several accidents involving parties descending

in the afternoon). 45min

Eigerjochs 3759.3m and 3614m

L Steven, W and G Matthews with U Lauener, J Croz and M

Charlet, 7 Aug 1859 (S Eigerjoch)

The name is given to the two cols on the ridge linking the Monch

and Eiger. Since the building of the Monchjoch hut the climbing of

the S ridge of the Eiger has become quite popular and involves a

traverse of the ridge between the two cols.

124 TRAVERSE OF THE RIDGE BETWEEN THE NORTH AND

AD SOUTHEIGERJOCH

The interconnecting ridge is mainly gneiss, turning to limestone just before

the N Eigerjoch. It is stepped with short snow crests and gives some

enjoyable climbing even though the rock is a bit loose.

From the M6nchjoch hut descend a little way into the snow coombe

at the head of the Ewigschneefald before turning N to cross the

ridge below point 3687m. Easy snow slopes lead NW to the S

Eigerjoch (3759.3m). 1hr

An approach can be made from the Bergli hut by following

Route 123 to the Unders Manchjoch and climbing the ridge from

there to Pt 3687m and then as above. 2.5 hr

From the S Eigerjoch climb to the highest point (3770m)

keeping to the crest. The rocks below this point are cut on the W

side by a chimney. Descend this to its base (often verglassed) and

from the gap beyond climb back to the crest. It is also possible to

traverse out of the chimney at about half-height using some hidden

holds. Continue along the ridge to the N Eigerjoch. Bits of III-.

1.5 hr,2.5 -3hr in all

96-97

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