88-89
101 EAST RIB
D C Blum and U Frei,
58 A good rock climb but not much frequented. Mostly II and III
with
bits of IV.
From the
rib. A short but
steep snow slope is climbed to reach its foot a bit R
of the mouth of the couloir bordering the rib on its S side. Climb the
rib until just below
the final rise to the summit. In the wall (facing
E) is a couloir, narrowing to a chimney in places, leading to a
small
ledge on the rib on
the R. Climb the couloir to the ledge then
traverse a few metres R before moving straight up to regain the crest
of the rib a few
minutes from the summit. 5-6hr
Hinter Fiescherhorn 4025m
G. Lammer and A Lorria,
A popular mountain among ski-tourers, which although surpassing
the 4000m mark can
hardly be classed as a separate mountain. It is
more akin to a
'Munro top'.
F J Liniger,
R Winterhalter and J Bulli,
59 Descended
on the traverse from the Gr Fiescherhom
to the Gr Grfinhorn.
From the KI Grtinhornhicke
(see Route 100) climb the ridge on
good rock toa distinctive tower. Traverse this or turn it on its W
side to a gap to its
N. The easy ridge leads to the summit. 1 .5 -2hr
103 SOUTH-WEST RIB
PD L Purtscheller
and C Blodig,
A little shorter and more sporting than the SE
ridge, which it joins at a
conspecuous
tower.
From the Monchjoch
hut follow Route 100 until W of Pt 3415m.
Climb directly up the glacier slope, passing
just S of this point, and
continue close to
the rib until finally getting on to it a little way
below a level
section. Above this climb directly to the top of the
tower on the SE
ridge or traverse, on the NW side, to the gap
beyond the tower. The easy ridge beyond leads to the summit. 5 hr
104 NORTH-WEST RIDGE
F First ascent party
59 From
the Fieschersattel (see Route 105) follow the ridge,
passing
the first gendarme
on its E side, to the summit. 30min
Gross Fiescherhorn 4048.8m
H George and A Moore
with CAlmer and U Kaufmann,
An important mountain whose main feature is
the Fiescherwand,
the N face extending
from the summit of the Walcherhorn in the W
to the Ochs in the E. This face and its climbs are described
separately below.
The mountain itself is principally snow covered,
with poor rock except
on the crest of its ridges.
PD F Bischoff with P Bohren and P Egger,
59 The
ridge can be approached from theManchjoch, Bergli,
Combined with the ridge it provides a very
good craverse ofthe
mountain.
The route is slightly more difficult when
approached from the Manchioch,
Bergli or Konkordia huts. See also photo 61.
From the Monchjoch
or Bergli huts descend the Ewigschneefild
to
below the glacier
bay leading up to the col (3923m) between the Gr.
and Hinter Fiescherhorn - this is the Fieschersattel.
Climb the R-
hand side of the bay
until above a crevassed zone then move L to
avoid more crevasses.
The slope steepens somewhat (500) below the
col. Climb this snow
slope and cross the bergschrund about 100m
below the col, then climb ice, snow or rock, according to
conditions, to the
col. 4hr
Frorn
the Konkordia hut follow Route 95 onto the
Ewigschneeflild and
climb the same glacier bay to the col. Shr
From the
the sierac zone near its head. The route through the zone is
quite
variable. If
conditions are suitable climb through its middle but
more commonly the
only way is by the L (E) bank (exposed to the
danger of falling
ice). Either way, once above the sieracs get onto the
high snowy plateau to the E of the Fieschersattel. 4-5hr
From the Fieschersattel
climb the crest of the ridge on good
rock (one tricky
descent at about half-height) to the summit. 45 min,
5-6 hr in all
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