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A delightful, if somewhat strenuous, way of getting a feel for the
Bernese Oberland is to undertake a walk along its N side. This can
be taken in either direction although the W-E direction saves some
of the finer views for the later stages. The walk described here
traverses the various ridges and valleys extending roughly N from
the main mountain chain. The walk is comparable to the Tour de
in six days although most people will prefer to split the fourth stage.
Many variations are possible and extensions at either end are quite
feasible.
As on any high mountain walk good quality footwear should
be used and regard must be taken of the possibility of having to
cross snow, especially if the walk is undertaken early in the season.
Adequate warm clothing should be carried as well as waterproofs as
mist, which often forms on ridges, can be quite cold even at the
relatively low altitudes encountered, or there may be a rapid change
in the weather with the possibility particularly of afternoon storms.
Overnight accommodation on the route is available in hotels
in the valley resorts or in mountain hotels (Berghaus) which usually
have dormitory accommodation. Bivouacing or high mountain
camping is an attractive alternative or valley campsites can be used.
The walk can be abandoned almost anywhere and the start
regained by means of the excellent public transport system.
The Swiss Tourist Office have available a very useful guide to
hiking in the
written in English.
Maps required are: Wildstrubel
(263),
Start at Gsteig, heading NE up the valley of Uss Saligrabe to the
pass at 1659m (Chrine). Descend in roughly the same direction to
the
Rutschi before turning SE to Flue, then up the long ridge of the
Vordere Trittlisberg. After passing through the short section of
forest take a L fork to the Triitlisbergpass (2038m). The day
finishes with a long downhill walk to Lenk after a total of about
20 km and over 1200 m of ascent.
There is a campsite just S of the village and another at the
valley roadhead about 3V2km SE of the village. Dormitory
accommodation is available at Stoss (on the lift system SE of Lenk)
and at the valley roadhead (Simmenfalle).
Day two starts at the valley roadhead (Pt 1102.8m). Take the path E
through the woods, avoiding the path to the waterfalls
(Simmenfillie). The path turns SE and then NE to reach the
Ammertentlili. Follow this stony valley, quite steep in places, past
Pt 1931.7m to reach the Ammertengrat at Pt 2443m where you will
have a splendid close-up view ofthe Wildstrubel's N flank.
Descend steeply on the E side of the ridge to Schonbilel then more
easily to Engstligenalp where the hotel offers dormitory
accommodation. The alternative is wild camping or bivouacing.
The day has involved almost 1400m of ascent in its 14km (from
Lenk village).
Stage three starts SE across the valley floor to Marbenen before
climbing steeply to the Engstligengrat, which is reached just S of
the Chindbettihorn. Fine views to the E are reward for the effort.
On the E side of the ridge descend towards the tongue of the Talli
glacier before turning L (N) to reach the Talliseeli. More
adventurous spirits might like to to take the path on the E side of
the Talli glacier which crosses the ridge N of Pt 2628.3m before
descending by way of Rote Chumme to the shores of the
Daubensee.
The way forward from the Titlliseeli is to head N at first
towards the Uschene valley, but shortly take a R fork and a
spectacular traverse path to the Schwarzgrittli. Descend from here
to the Schwarenbach Hotel (dormitory). A pleasant detour from
here is to the Gemmipass by way of the Daubensee.
Accommodation is available there (
The detour can be continued to the Lammeren hut (see hut
section).
From the Schwarenbach Hotel the walk continues NE to
Sunnbuel. A lift from here will whisk you to the valley but the
preferred way is to descend the steep path NE into the Gasteretal
which is reached at Waldhtis (dormitory). Camping is possible in
Kandersteg but not in the Gasteretal. If you arrive in Kandersteg
early enough a start can be made on the next section by walking up
to the Oeschinensee where there is a Berghotel. The day has
(without detours) entailed about 18km walking and 700m of ascent.
An early start is advisable if the fourth stage is to be completed in
one day. From the Gasteretal walk into Kandersteg from where the
high pass of Hobtiirli (2778m) is reached (the highest point on the
walk). See the hut section of the guide book for the route to the
Blitemlisalp hut. There are fine views to the S on the whole ofthis
part of the walk, giving ample excuse for rests. Once at the col of
Hohairli a short deviation can be made to the Blilemlisalp hut.
From the col there is quite a steep descent Nwards. Keep
close to the rocks on the L, thus avoiding any snow, for about 500m
then cross the ridge and continue on the path towards Bundlilger.
(There is accommodation a little further on at Oberi Bundalp.) Now
take the traverse track SE and pass through a gate on the edge of the
ridge (Pt 2033m on older maps) before descending to Gamchi. A
detour here to the Gspaltenhorn hut is worthwhile and an overnight
stop can be taken there. If you choose this option ignore the signs to
the hut in the coombe below the gate and walk to the hut from
Gamchi. It is also possible from Bundliiger to descend to Griesalp
for an overnight stop.
From Gamchi the walk continues NW to Bilrglibefore
turning E again to make the long climb to the Sefinenfurgge
(2612m). The consolation for reaching this point is the view E
towards the Eiger, Monch and
walk to the valley at Stechelberg. From the col take the path NE to
Pogaggen (dormitory). Now either follow the path to Murren and
take the lift down to Stechelberg or descend via Obenberg into the
Sefinental and reach Stechelberg by following the valley road along
the Sefinen Liitschini.
There is camping at Stechelberg and a hotel but no dormitory.
This has been a long day covering about 30km and climbing about
2600m.
If you split the fourth stage by stopping at the Gspaltenhorn
hut a more direct route to the Sefinenfurgge can be taken. From the
hut a path leads across the lower part of the W ridge of Biitlasse to
Trogegg. From here follow the path NE to the pass.
Stage five begins with a walk along the road N to Sandbach from
where a path leads up the S side of the Triimmelbach falls. Follow
this to Preech then take the contouring path N wards towards
Stalden. After about 1 km take the track turning sharp R to Mettla
and hence reach the path alongside the railway leading finally to KI
Scheidegg. An overnight stop can be made at the Station Buffet
(dormitory) or descend to Grindelwald by way of Alpiglen and the
path below the railway (camping and hotels but no dormitory).
About 10km to Kl Scheidegg and just over 1000m ascent plus
a further 9km to Grindelwald.
The final stage has two alternatives. The first begins by walking
through Grindelwald (or use the bus) to the Wetterhorn Hotel at the
public roadhead near the foot of the Ober Grindelwald glacier. A
path from there leads to Gr Scheidegg. The second possibility is to
walk, or use the lift, to First from where a magnificent panorama to
the S can be enjoyed. From First a contouring path heads E towards
Gr Scheidegg (dormitory accommodation available here). From Gr
Scheideggit is possible to descend directly to Rosenlaui, but a more
pleasant way is to take the track heading N (fork R at Pt 2006m) to
the small summit of Cheerhubel. From here there are fine views of
the Engelhorner peaks and of the Wellhorn. Descend by the path on
the E side of the Pfannibach to the road at Schwarzwaldalp.
There is now little alternative to following the road through
Rosenlaui and on towards Meiringen (bus service). On the last
stretch a fairly direct line close to the Reichenbach falls can be
taken.
It is about 22km from Grindelwald to Meiringen and a bit
further if the alternatives to First and Cheerhubel are taken. The
direct route involves about 900m climbing whilst for the alternatives
it is nearer 1400m.
GENERAL INDEX - ERRATA
The page numbering in the General Index
and in the Index of Climbs is out of sequence.
Please
add 1 extra page from pages 113 to 138
add 2 extra pages from page 139 to 182
add 3 extra pages from page 183 to 194
add 4 extra pages from page 195 to 236
236-237