198-199
Zwillingsturmis the uppermost tower on the S ridge with a steep
ribbed face on its SE side. A deep cleft in the ridge separates it from
the summit. The face offers some excellent climbing on perfect rock
with routes of between 300m and 400m. The first routes on the face
were climbed in 1959and 1962 respectively, but more recently the
Remy brothers, among others, have been active and at least four
97 more routes have been added. Fixed protection is in place but
7 wedges and camming devices should be carried. The foot of the face
is reached in about 75min from the Salbit hut.
9 JATZI VII- with one point of aid or VI
and AO
10 LICHT UND SCHATTEN V/VI with one step
of VII-
11 JIMMY VII-
12 CLOG AND STOCK IV/V. Abseil down Jimmy
13 VILLIGER PILLAR VII or VI and AO
Handegg and the Grimselpass area
On the N side of the Grimselpass there are two areas of cliffs for
climbing. In the Haslital, described by Claude Remy as the
Llanberis pass of Switzerland, are a number of roadside crags of
which three have become very popular and on which a large number
of routes have been developed. The other area is on the N side of the
Grimselsee. Several cliffs have been developed of which three are
described. Two of these, especially Eldorado, require a little more
effort to reach but that effort will be justly rewarded. There is a
proposal to raise the level of the Grimselsee, and if this is accepted
by the Swiss authorities it could have serious consequences for
climbing here. All the more reason to make a visit ifyou are not
already familiar with the area.
The rock on each of the cliffs described is excellent, slabby
granite- the best in
courses after rain but others dry very quickly.
Neither camping nor bivouacing is permitted in the Haslital
other than on recognized campsites, nor are they permitted in the
Grimselsee region although at Eldorado, where the descent path
joins the main path, there is an excellent bivouac site under an
overhanging boulder. Use of this appears to be tolerated but it can
be crowded. There are four campsites in and around Innertkirchen,
and bivouacing on the terraces below the Grimsel Hospiz appears to
be tolerated. Accommodation is available at the Handegg Hotel and
at the Grimsel Hospiz (reduced rates for SAC members).
Maps for this area are: Sustenpass (255) and Nufenenpass (265)
Park at the power station just below the first hairpin bends on the
road to the Grimselpass, about 6km S of Guttanen. The cliff is
about 15min walk E from here and is comprised of three main areas
with routes of up to about 250m in length.
All the routes are well equipped with in situ bolts and pitons,
100 but it is necessary to carry wedges and camming devices and a
101 minimum rope length of 45m. Descent from most routes is by abseil
102 and a number of routes have been equipped for this purpose.
8 Descent from the N most crag is by the tramway.
9 Below is a list of climbs referred to in the topos and
10 photographs with the grade of the hardest moves. Routes that are
particularly recommended are 1, 3, 5, 9, 13, 14, 15 and 18.
1 HERRENPARTIE VI-
2 SCHIEFER TRAUM VI-
3 SPIEGELWEG VII+ or VI and AO
4 CHATZENFAD V no topo
5 SIEBEN SCHAFER VII or VI and AO
6 ENGELIWEG V
7 EILE MIT WEILE VII+ or VII and AO
8 JIM KNOPF VI+ with 4 aid points or VI
and AO
10
11 NOLIME TANGERE VII+ or VI and AO
12 FRED FEVERSTEIN VIII- or VII and AO
13 HANDEGG VERSCHNEIDUNG VI- or V and AO
14 QUARTZ RISS VI or V+ and AO
15 STATUS QUO VII+ or VI- and AO
16 TOTENWEG VII or VI and A0
17 BIOWEG VI and A2.
Two good initial pitches of V+
18 FAIR HAND LINE VI/VI+ or V+ and AO
198-199