196-197
Although not in the Oberland massif this splendid mountain is not
to be missed by climbers visiting the Grimsel/Handegg area since it
can be easily reached by a drive over the Sustenpass. The quality of
the rock is similar to that found at Handegg although access to the
routes is more of an undertaking. See the huts section for the
approach to the Salbit hut and the bivouac hut from the
Goschenertal W of Gaschenen. The classic route is the S ridge but
climbs are also described on the W ridge and on the Zwillingsturm
(the last tower on the S ridge) S face.
On the way over the Sustenpass you will pass under the
Tellistock and Wendenstock. Both of these are quite spectacular
and have a number of existing routes and potential for more. It is
also possible to cross the Furkapass, which has a wealth of granite
faces, to Andermatt. From there descend the superb Schollenen
gorge to Goschenen.
Map for this area is: Sustenpass (255)
D A and O Amstad
with G Masetto,
97 A sustained rock climb comparable with, but more difficult and more
sustained than, the N ridge of Piz Badile. The hardest step is V and AO
or V+ free. A Friend 2 is useful as well as wed ges.
From the Salbit hut follow the track leading to the grassy couloir
below the end of the S ridge. Climb the couloir to an indistinct
saddle. Start a little way R on the E side. 1 .5 hr
Easy climbing at first then steeper ground for a few m leads to
mixed grass and rock before a di6dre (V) leads onto the crest. Move
up R to a chimney and climb this (20m, can be avoided on the L)
then the ridge to another chimney. Climb this (steep) then up R to a
slab. Above the slab make a traverse R below the crest to a small gap
and from here reach the top of the first tower. Abseil 20m into the
gap beyond.
Just below the crest on the L side climb 20m then go up a
short chimney to a gap. Go straight up for 6m then slant up R to a
corner which leads to a small gap on the crest (IV+, a fine pitch).
Now climb a short slab then a long one to a block (sling). Make a
short descent on the N side then climb parallel to the crest to a gap.
Keep on the crest (easier) to a good stance before a 15m pitch up the
crest followed by a smooth slab leads to another gap below a slabby
wall. Climb this for 4m then, on the L side of the ridge, move up a
thin crack (pitons, V and AO) back to the crest and follow this to a
stance (40m in all). Move round the L side of the ridge and climb a
diedre back to the crest and follow this to a smooth slab. Move L
into a corner then climb up to the crest again and follow it to a ledge
below a fine pinnacle (cairn).
Start up the pinnacle then traverse its L side to a gap on its N
side. Climb the step above to the top of the tower (V). It is easier
half-way up this step to traverse L then back up R on the other side
of the tower. A 20m abseil leads to the next gap, then climb the crest
to the top of the tower (called Zwillingsturm, 2920m). Cross the two
summits and descend to the next gap without difficulty.
From this gap move up L to reach a short diddre. Climb this
then a 20m diddre to a grassy terrace. On the R climb a 6m crack
and a short corner to reach the ridge above. Move onto the N side
and climb the summit block. 6-8hr in all
Descend by going about 150m down the E ridge passing one
gap to another very prominent one. Now follow a gully down the N
side onto the small glacier on this side of the mountain. Cross the
glacier to its N side (few or no crevasses) then follow the slope down
to a snow/scree couloir which in turn leads to a scree slope and a
track back to the hut. 1 .5 -2hr
ED1 E and B Favre and I Henchoz, 1948
98 There are five towers on the ridge and the route traverses each of them,
5 the climbing being quite sustained. The rock is excellent throughout on
this, one of the
hardest rock ridges in the
abandoned after the second tower, and after the fourth tower by abseil on
the S side (descent on the N side leads into a dangerous gully). At the gap
after the third tower there are good bivouac sites on the N side of the
ridge. Pitons are in place where needed. The bivouac hut can be reached
from the Salbit hut by following a Via Ferrata style path constructed by
the hut guardian. Ask at the hut for details. See also photo 99
South Face
of
The towers of the W ridge have seen a good deal of development in
the way of rock climbing in the late 70s and throughout the 80s,
99 although it was as early as 1959 that the first of the routes was
6 climbed on this face (SE Pillar). All the routes are fully equipped
with in situ protection, but wedges and camming devices should be
carried. Approach from the bivouac hut in about 15 min.
3 BGA VIII- or VI+ and A1
4 GKG VIII- or VII and AO
5 KGB VII+ and AO
6 HAMMERBRUCH VII or VI and AO
7 IRON MAN VIII- or VII- and AO
8 SOUTH-EAST PILLAR VII- or VI- and AO
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