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GENERAL
INFORMATION
PHOTOGRAPH NUMBERS are shown in the solid rectangles
below the route grade although this pattern has been varied in the
rock-climbing section. On the photographs the
route numbers are
marked and the line of ascent indicated. Some
routes or parts of
routes may be visible on more than one
photograph and, when this
occurs, these additional photograph numbers
appear at the end of
the introduction to the route. A dotted line
signifies that this section
of the route is not visible. In a few cases
routes which are visible
have been omitted to avoid overcrowding, but
in these cases the
starts are usually shown. There are also, on
some photographs, lines
shown with no number but with a technical
grade. These are climbs
which may have been referred to in the text
but not described or
they may be lines which are known to have
been climbed but are not
described or mentioned in the text.
HEIGHTS, when quoted, for the whole
route refer to the vertical
interval from the base of the route to its top and not to the amount
of climbing involved which may be much longer.
ROUTE TIMES give a good indication for
a rope of two fit
climbers, competent at the standard and experiencing no delays due
to other parties, weather etc. They may also
aid the decision as to
whether or not to carry bivouac equipment on
the route.
ABBREVIATIONS are used for points of
the compass and for left
and right. Others frequently used are: Pt (point where this refers to
a spot height), K1(Klein), Gr (Gross) and SAC
(Swiss Alpine Club)
With so many manuals now available on the
craft of alpinism, there
is little point in dwelling on the subject here. When it comes to
equipment, most parties tend to use an 11mm
rope on middle-grade
climbs where long abseils are not involved.
They wili carry a few
hexentrics, wired wedges, slings for spikes
and plenty of karabiners
for in situ protection. On modern rock routes
a minimum of 45m
double rope is normal and a selection of
wedges, wires and camming
devices should be carried. Information about
in situ protection is
given in the rock-climbing section. Where
there is doubt a full rack
should be carried. Where pitons are required
ontock routes this is
usually indicated in the text. On more
difficult mountain routes
which involve some technical rock pitches a
selection of pitons
should be carried.
OTHER
GUIDE BOOKS TO THE REGION
The Swiss Alpine Club produce the definitive
guide books to all the
areas described except the Engelhorner which is responsibility of
the
climbs books in both large and pocket-sized
format, the former
being one of the 100 Best series and
Schweitz-Extrem the most
useful for the serious rock climber. Below is
a list of those believed
to be currently available with the date of
publication and ISBN
number.
Alpes et Prealpes Vaudoises (SAC) 1985 M
Brandt 3-85902-046-3
Berner Voralpen (SAC) 1981 M Brandt 3-85902-028-5
Berner Alpen 1 Sanetsch bis Gemmi(SAC) 1991
3-85902-103-6
Berner Alpen 2 Gemmi bis Petersgrat (SAC)
1982 J Miiller
3-85902-034-X
Berner Alpen 3 Bietschhorn-, L6tschentaler
Breithorn-, Nesthorn-
und Aletschhorngruppen (SAC) 1976 (new
edition expected soon)
Berner Alpen 4
Tschingelhorn-Finsteraarjoch-Obers Studerjoch
(SAC)
1989 K Hausmann 3-85902-100-1
Berner Alpen 5
Grindelwald-Meiringen-Grimsel-Fiesch (SAC) 1982
U Mosimann 3-85902-038-2
Guide des Alpes Bernoises Selection
d'itindraires (SAC) 1982
M Brandt 3-85902-021-8
Schweitz-Extrem (Filidor) 1989 J von Klinel
Engelhorner and Salbitschijen (
Sanetsch et Miroir d'Argentine (Private) C
and Y Remy 1991
Clubhtitten (Cabanes/Cappane/Huts) (SAC) 1987
3-85902-061-7
There is no single valley base from which the
whole of the area
described in this book can be easily reached, but the whole of the
area is highly developed to support the
tourist trade. There are large
and small resorts, all of which provide hotel
accommodation and
many of which have camp sites, although these
appear to be
progressively being taken over by caravans at
the expense of the tent
dweller. Pre-booking of places on camp sites
looks as if it will soon
be the only way of ensuring a pitch; even now
it is not uncommon to
find camp sites with full signs.
The Swiss National Tourist
Office, The Swiss Centre, New
source of information about accommodation. Ask for details about
specific valleys to get the most
comprehensive information. This
office is also able to supply maps.
Some centres do post
weather forecasts (usually at the local
tourist office) but these might be several
days out of date. The most
reliable method of obtaining information
about the weather is from
telephone recorded messages. Simply dial 162
to hear the message
in the language of the region. An alternative
is to read the local
newspapers which can be consulted free in
most places where you
can buy a drink. These forecasts usually give
the outlook for the
next five days with a weather map.
Weather forecasts can be
obtained from
report is given by English-speaking
personnel. Telephone (after 2
pm) 0 1252 7644 or 0 1 256 9270.
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