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General information
In the same way that rock climbing has been the main activity that
has seen great development during
the 80s in the
so too in the Bernese Oberland. The difference here however is that
in the Oberland most of the development has been on relatively low
altitude crags, as opposed to the
high mountains of the
massif. These developments have taken place on both granite and
limestone and in both cases it has become the practice to used fixed
protection although not quite to the same degree as say in the
Verdon gorge.
The succession of winters with relatively little snowfall followed
by hot summers has led to many of the ice routes for which the Oberland
was once renowned almost disappearing, and the only time of year that
some of these routes now see an ascent is in the winter. On the ever
popular Eiger N face the icefields have almost gone, but even so it is
still possible to find a new line to climb, although this tends to be
accomplished only in winter conditions.
On the other high mountains in the region there has been little
new route development, certainly in the summer months, in recent
years and this will probably continue to be the case until there is a
climatic change.
The guide is designed to be used in conjunction with the Carte
nationale de la Suisse (CN) / Landeskarte der S chweiz (LK) 1: 50000
series of maps, although quite a large number of these are required
to cover the whole of the area described. All the heights and nomenclature
used in the guide are those used on the maps, and often different from those
used in previous editions of AC Bernese Alps guidebooks. Approaches to
huts are often by well waymarked paths which are clearly shown on the maps,
and in these cases only outline details are given in the way of route description.
In each section of the book the appropriate maps for the area
being described are noted in the introduction.
The Swiss have some of the best-appointed huts in the
almost all the climbs described can be started from one of these high
mountain bases. Practically all the huts have a resident guardian in
summer except in sustained bad weather, and all the SAC huts have
a winter room which is always open when the guardian is absent.
When the guardian is present (approximate dates are given in the
hut details) meals are usually available or the guardian will cook
food that you have carried to the hut. There are no self-catering
facilities. If you do take food try to make it simple to prepare and
tell the guardian when you arrive that you want your own food prepared.
In this way you will make his/her task easier and probably your own stay
more comfortable. Reduced fees are available in SAC and affiliated huts
on the production of an alpine club card (but not AC) or a UIAA
reciprocal rights card. In addition to the overnight fee and the cost
of any meals and drinks that you purchase you can expect to pay for
hot water, especially if you have it during the daytime (it may be free at
breakfast and at dinner). The charge for this is rather variable and is determined
by the individual section of the SAC that owns the hut. In addition to all other
charges there is likely to be a supplement towards the cost of the hut improvement
programme that is being undertaken by the SAC throughout the Swiss Alps.
This was 3SFr for members in 1991.
Bivouac huts are usually spacious and comfortable with blankets provided.
Stoves in these huts are only (usually) for emergency use and so one should always
be carried if you intend to stay at such a place. It is also worth carrying cooking
and eating implements.
The SAC ask that all hut users treat the huts and their furnishings carefully
and that the huts are left clean. Hut users are considered friends of the mountains
and as such they should conserve the natural environment and carry their litter etc.
back to the valley.
MOUNTAIN ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS vary considerably in detail from a few
lines to quite lengthy descriptions. For the rock climbs descriptions have been
omitted in most cases, and a topo diagram and photograph have been used to
show the line of ascent. In all cases every effort has been made to ensure accuracy
but absolute accuracy cannot be guaranteed. This might be because the route in
question has had few ascents, or because of changing conditions on the mountain,
or even that the author has got it wrong. Whatever the case the climber should
always be prepared to use his or her own judgement as to the best line of attack.
Common British usagein naming routes and features has been
maintained e.g. ridge is used rather than ar6te although the terms
diddre and couloir
are used throughout. The names of modern rock
routes have not been translated.
The terms L and R, L wards and R wards and L
and R side are
always used with reference to the direction of movement of
the
climber. For mountain features such as glaciers, couloirs
etc. the
orographical reference to L and R
is applied when viewed in the
direction of flow or
looking down wards.
Where routes are shown on photographs or topo diagrams,
this is indicated in the margin by a solid or open
rectangle
respectively with the appropriate reference
number shown within
the rectangle.
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