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J Hornby with C Lauener,
The most notable feature of the mountain is it's magnificent
northern flank, which forms the E end of the Lauterbrunnen Wall
and which dominates the view from the Rottal hut. Its S side is
much less spectacular but still provides a few worthwhile and not
much frequented climbs, each of which requires a good deal of
effort to approach.
Climbers attempting routes on the N side can be fliced with
the problem of returning to that side. This can be achieved at much
expense by using the railway from the Jungfraujoch but otherwise
there is no easy route (see note to Lowitor for winter approach).
Probably the best solution is to descend to the Hollandia hut and
then follow Route 182 to get onto the W flank of the S ridge of the
Grosshorn and from here reach the Schmadrijoch. Descend from
here by reversing Route 188 to the Schmadrihut.
D- R Hodel, H Lamper and H Rey,
72 There are pitches of III and IV in the lower part of the ridge.
From the Konkordia or Hollandia huts reach the foot of the ridge N
Of Pt 3414.1m. Climb the first step on the S side and then the
narrow snow crest to the next step. Climb this on the N side by a
groove and wall. Another snow crest is climbed followed by two
gendarmes before descending into a snowy gap. Easy rock leads to
the summit. 6hr
PD First ascent party
From the Konkordia or Hollandia huts climb the Gletscherfirn to
the Gletscherjoch (3769m). 3-4hr
Climb the snow ridge (cornices) to Pt 3888.7m. In good snow
conditions it should be possible to climb direct to the lowest rocks
on the ridge without going to the Gletscherjoch. Pass two
gendarmes then climb steep rock (II, III) to the W summit. Cross a
deep gap and some small gendarmes (exposed) to the main summit.
2hr, about 6hr in all
TD H Etter and
73 The lower part of the rib had been climbed in 1911 (O Williamson,
J Maitre and H Fuchs) but the party left the rib to reach the
Gletscherfoch. The climb takes the extreme R-hand rib on the NW face
directly below Pt3888.7m, where the route ends. A worthwhile climb
with no real objective dangers. Most of the difficulties are on ice.
From the Rottal hut cross the Rottal glacier to the foot of the rib
coming down from Pt 3888.7m. Cross the bergschrund on
avalanche debris at the foot of a snow couloir. On the E side of the
couloir get onto the rib at its least distinct section via a snow band.
This part of the rib has easy broken rocks. The rib disappears
higher up into a solid rock flank which is climbed until it is possible
to get onto snow at about 3600m. The snow rib is interrupted by an
ice bulge, which is climbed with difficulty, and then becomes less
distinct. Continue up snow to another ice bulge which is climbed
diagonally R wards. From the top of the rib follow the W ridge to
the summit. 12hr
ED2 R Carrington and A Rouse, June 1972
73 The lower half of the route gives some excellent, sustained and serious
mixed climbing, then from the 'terrace' at half height the difficulties ease
somewhat. The lower part of the climb is threatened by the sierac band on
the upper face. It had a winter ascent in the 1980's.
Start in the first gully R of the central couloir and climb this (steep)
for 150m to a broadening and easing of the angle. Trend L on icy
rock and climb grooves just R of a rock pillar before exiting onto a
rectangular ice field. Climb direct to the rock band above and work
through this, just R of the continuation pillar, by a series of icy
grooves, before trending L again to the crest of the rib above the
pillar. Keep on the rib to the 'terrace'.
Move up the ice field and find a way through the sierac band
(usually climb diagonally R to the s6racs and work back L through a
break in the wall). Above the sieracs trend R, cross a bergschrund
and get onto an ice ridge below a final sierac bulge. Climb the ridge
to Pt 3888.7m. 8-12hr from the foot of the face
TD+/ H Etter, F Jaun and
EDI H Berger, 12-13 Feb 1971
73 A long (over 1000m) mixed climb with the main difficulties on ice up to
600. It is the easiest climb on the face and the most direct route to the
summit, but is seriously threatened by sierac fall over its entire length.
Reach the foot of the face in about 1hr from the Rottal hut. Cross
the bergschrund and immediately traverse R to the rocks. These
give steep climbing on good holds (mostly II and III with some
moves of IV) straight up to a 60m high ice field. This leads to a very
steep ice slope on the first hanging glacier. Slant L up the ice to the
rocks in the summit fall-line below the upper hanging glacier. The
rocks are steep and often icy and lead to another ice field which,
higher up, is blocked by a rock rib.
Climb the ice, turning a bulge on the R, and reach the foot of
the icy summit rocks by crossing a slabby groove. Go up towards on
very steep ice onto an icy bulge directly below the summit. A steep
snow slope with another ice bulge allows access to the foot of the ice
couloir leading to the summit which can be gained on the L or R.
10-16 hr
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