116-117
153 NORTH-EAST
RIDGE
D+ A Weber with H Schlunegger
snr,
68 A long rid ge with some excellent climbing. Unfortunately the lower part
of the ridge has been spoiled by the installation of some
telecommunications equipment and, although it is still possible to climb
this section, it seems better to avoid it even though this means missing the
most difficult part of the ridge.Seealsophoto71
From the Manchjoch hut follow the track to the Sphinx tunnel and
descend the Jungfraufirn to get under the S side of the ridge. Climb
a couloir leading up between the double gendarme of Pt 3809m (if
necessary the rocks bordering the couloir can be utilised, III).
Follow the ridge over several steps (excellent climbing on the
crest, III and IV), with deviations onto the N face where necessary,
to a large gendarme (3992m).
The next section starts with a snow crest and is followed by
three high gendarmes. Climb each of these- the first has poor rock
in its lower part and is quite delicate (mostly III, one section of IV) -
before a steep and exposed wall leads to the Wengen Jungfrau
(Pt 4089m). Cross the Hochfirn to the foot of the final rocks and
follow the crest (reached by steep snow) to the summit. 8-11hr
Silberhorn 3695m
E von Fellenberg and K Blideker with C von Allmen, P Michel,
H Baumann, P Indibnit, F Fuchs and C Lauener,
A satellite of the
this peak. There are no easy descent routes from the peak.
154 ROTBRETT
RIDGE
D
The route had been climbed earlier but the key passage had been avoided
(H King, A Supersaxo and L Zurbriggen, 24 Sept 1887). It is a long
mixed climb with the major difficulties on rock and low down. The
Rotbrett is the 500m high triangular pillar of rock on the NW side of the
and has three sections of fixed ropes. Nowhere are the difficulties very
great but escape from the route is difficult and it is this which makes it a
serious undertaking.
From the Silberhorn hut climb SE across steep and overlapping
rocks to snow slopes leading to the crest of the ridge forming the N
side of the Rotbrett. Climb the R (W) side of the snow slope and
reach a wa11via some shattered rock steps (all this section is
somewhat variable and is best inspected in the light of day). Climb
the wall using a 30mlong cable then climb a few more metres before
following a stony gangway R wards for about 50m (delicate with a
slight descent at the start). A wide, stepped crack leads easily to a
fixed rope. From its top climb the ridge without much difficulty, on
the crest or just L of it, and reach the shoulder at Pt 3382m (the top
of the Rotbrett).
Follow the less steep ridge to the bottom of a 6mhigh,
overhanging step (the Fellenbergflieli). A fixed rope allows this
obstacle to be passed. In very good snow conditions it is possible to
pass it on the N side by the edge of the Silberhorn glacier. Just
above the ridge turns to snow. Continue up it and over a snow boss
(Goldenhorn) and then climb the snow slopes to the summit. 5-6hr
Continue via Route 152 to the summit of the
8-12 hr in all
D J Hornby and T Philpott with C Almer, C Lauener, J Bischoff and
71 U
Almer snr,
Best climbed when the rock is dry. The climbing is a bit more sustained
Than on the Rotbrett Ridge.
From the Silberhorn hut traverse across rocks to a scree band below
the Silberhorn glacier and then go up L (NE) across scree covered
loose rocks into a gorge (stone and icefall danger). Now climb the W
flank of the ridge to the crest which is followed to a notch. More
difficult climbing, either direct or on the L, follows (III) to an
easing. Follow the filirly steep snow above to the summit. 6-8 hr
D+ J Jenkins and M
71 Approximate@ 50. ice with some stone fall danger in the lower part.
Probably a usef2d route for training or in different weather.
From the Silberhorn hut go downhill W wards onto the snow band
at the foot of the NW ridge. Go round the base of the ridge then
climb rocks on its E flank before gaining the snowfields on the L.
Climb these with increasing difficulty to the summit. A
bergschrund has to be crossed near the crest at the top of the NW
ridge. 4-6hr
116-117