94-95
115 WELZENBACHROUTE (Fiescherwand)
ED2
60 Winter:
M Dorflinger, UKilmpfer and
P Jungen,
This is probably the most direct route to the
summit of the
Gr Fiescherhorn. It climbs a complex line up the face and is
seriously
threatened by the strac band L of the mountain's summit. The rock is
generally poor with
pitches up to lV.
Start just L of the Freile-Sprang
route and climb the next gully line
on the L. Get onto
the rib on the L and climb this (mixed) to where
it merges into
almost vertical slabs. Move L up ice fields to the next
prominent rib and
climb this to a very steep ice field. Move up
R wards and over a rock
band to the upper ice field. A snow ramp
leads R wards in the
upper part to an ice bulge at the top of the f ace.
This is the line of the route to the summit.
14hr from the foot of the
Face
116 STEURI-HEDIGER
AND PARTY ROUTE (Fiescherwand)
ED2 B Hediger
with H Steuri, P Maurice and a Dutch guest, c 1948
60 This
climb is exposed to sierac fall like the Welzenbach route and cannot
be recommended. See
the photograph for the line of the route.
117 WILKINSON-McCARTNEY ROUTE (Fiescherwand)
ED2 D Wilkinson and S
McCartney, July 1977
60 The
route climbs the face between the S teuri-Hediger and
the Liithi-
Steuri rouces to the col
between the Gr Fiescherhorn
and Ochs. The rock
is quite good, but
the route is exposed to sirac fall like the other
routes on
this sector of the
face.
Start just L of the Hediger-Steuriroute
and make a zig-zag ascent of
the face trending L
to exit at the col.
118 LUTHI-STEURIROUTE (Fiescherwand)
TD/ED1 Frl M Litthiand
H Steuri,
60 P
Hilber 29/30 Jan 1981
This climb can be recommended. There is no sierac danger and the
Stone fall risk is not serious. The rock is
not good but it is a lot better than
further E on the
wall. It is at its best on the harder part of the climb (the
upper wall) but even
here there is debris on the ledges and some loose
holds. The ideal
line on the upper wall (if there is one) is not easy to
follow.
From the bivouac site go S to reach the flat
part of the glacier.
Continue in the same direction, then go up snow and glacier ice to
the snowfields below
the wall rising to the N ridge of Ochs.
Traverse these to the R to reach the glacier bay below the face.
Cross the bergschrund
on the L and reach the foot of a rocky
spur splitting the
lower part of the face. Climb this on good rock at
first (III) then
progressively worse rock to an easing of the angle.
Climb easy mixed ground to an obvious
snow/ice couloir splitting a
short rock wall.
Enter this from the L and either climb the ice direct
or move 5m R and
climb a short rock wall and then icy steps to the
wide couloir above. Climb this trending L to rocks, then climb
the
ice field above to
the bottom L hand corner of an ice bay at the foot
of the summit walls.
Climb a groove for 40m (III-IV) to reach a
ledge which
crosses the face
(there is an obvious large crack system about 40m
R). Move 10m L and climb a groove for 10m
(III) to reach a ledge
on the L below an
overhang. Traverse L, horizontally at first and
then rising slightly
for a further 50mbefore climbing cracks on the
L to a small bay below some
extensive wet slabs. Take an
overhanging crack on
the L to a ledge (V) then step L and climb a
short rib (IV+) to
reach smooth slabs. Move up 5m (V) then
traverse R to a
small niche (IV+). Move R to a rib, climb the
overhang (IV+) and
continue up slabs to easier mixed ground.
After a further 40m reach a ledge system that
crosses the face.
Direct finishes are possible from here but
are very loose. Instead,
traverse L along the
ledge (bivouac sites) to reach the N ridge of
Ochs a few pitches
from the summit. 13-15hr
E Burckhardt with P
Egger and P Schlgel,
The Trugberg
separates the Jungfraufirn from the Ewigschneeflild,
rising like an
island in a sea of ice. Its N limit is marked by the
Obers Monchjoch. The best feature of
the mountain is its long
rocky crest running
roughly N-S with three separate tops.
AD An
interesting climb with a very short approach. Mixed, with rock of
grade II but when
snowed up or verglassed it becomes quite difficult.
From the M6nchjoch hut climb a snow/ice slope
to the first rocks
which are climbed on
the L. Avoid a steep wall on the R then climb
a couloir to the N summit. The next rocks are taken on the L. Now
follow the snow
crest which becomes quite narrow. Mixed rock and
snow follows to a
large gendarme. Climb an icy slope to the
gendarme and then
the rocks on its L side. Descend into a gap
before the
fore-summit. At first climb direct and then Lwards to
get
onto the crest just
beyond this summit. Reach the main summit by a
steep crack or by
the crest. 3.5 hr
Descend Swards, turning a gendarme towards a
snow crest,
before a series of
rock teeth lead to the S summit. Snow slopes lead
down to the Ewigschneeflild for a return to the Monchjoch,
or
continue down the
ridge past Pt 3542.6m to Konkordiaplatz.
6-7hr in all
94-95