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214 SOUTH-WEST
FLANK AND WEST-NORTH-WEST RIDGE
D W Coolidge and
79 Basically a long snow climb to the ridge with a few obstacles on the ridge
itself. See also photo 80
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 213 past where it leaves the
glacier and continue to a height of about 2700m. Climb up the
glacier slope, more or less in the middle, to the snowy col E of the
Kl Aletschhorn (3702m). 4-5hr
Climb on snow up the ridge, avoiding the loose rock on its L,
to a bergschrund. Now either cross the bergschrund and climb a
steep snow/ice slope, or traverse R onto the rocks (now more solid)
and continue up these over several steps and so reach a small snowy
plateau. Cross this to the final snow crest. 2-3hr, about 8hr in all.
D/TD
80 In descent: V Ryan with G Lochmatter, before 1914.
Winter: H Gunten and
Direct: H Aufschiliger and G Mitterer, Aug 1935
The whole N flank of this mountain, from the Sattelhorn to the
Dreieckhorn, is a most impressive steep glaciated slope up to 1000m high,
interspersed with some rock buttresses which mostly merge into the ice
some way below the summit ridge. Various routes have been recorded on
the face, which can be climbed almost anywhere, but none has a
particularly distinctive line. The one described gives the longest climb
and leads directly to the summit. Difficulties will vary according to
conditions but there is usually plenty of snow on the easier sections. It is
the sort of climb that requires a good sense of terrain in order to find the
most efficient line of ascent. The overall angle is about450 but there
could be some vertical or even overhanging steps where sierac barriers
cannot be avoided. Some danger of falling ice. Recommended in cold
weather.
From the Konkordia or Hollandia huts reach a point at the foot of
the face about 400m NE of Pt 3127.7m. Climb the crevassed slope
to where, usually, an enormous crevasse cuts across the entire slope
at about 3400 m. Generally move R to cross this difficulty then climb
less crevassed slopes directly in the summit fall-line. This leads to a
vertical (or even overhanging) step, barring access to a less inclined
terrace. Usually move L to surmount this obstacle. From the terrace
climb up L to reach the NE ridge or, better, pass R of the rock
triangle and climb direct to the summit which is gained finally by
the WNW ridge. 5-8hr from Hollandia, allow 2hr more from
Konkordia.
AD+ F Middlemore with J Jaun jnr
and C Lauener,
80 Winter:
G Hasler with F and A Amatter,
This is the rocky interspersion of the N face below Pt 3718m. It is a good
mixed climb and the most popular route on the mountain from the
Konkordia or Hollandia huts. The rib has an average angle of450 with
difficulties of II-III and some loose rock, although there are no real
objective dangers. It is probably best avoided after fresh snow.
From the Konkordia or Hollandia huts reach the foot of the rib at
about 3000m. Climb it direct to a height of about 3550m where it
merges with the snow/ice slope. This section can be avoided by the
snow/ice slope on the L. Climb another 200m and regain more rocks
which are followed to the NE ridge. Climb this easily to the summit.
6-7hr, slightly longer from Konkordia.
217 SOUTH-EAST
FLANK AND NORTH-
PD First ascent party
Fairly infrequently climbed, it is the shortest route and the quickest in
descent from the summit.
From the Mittelaletsch bivouac hut climb NW over the crevassed
glacier until under the rock outcrop below Pt 3482m. Less steep
slopes lead more or less in the same direction to the Aletschf och. A
fliirly narrow snow crest leads to Pt 3718m from where a broad snow
slope continues to the fore-summit at 4086.4 m. This can be
traversed or avoided on its S side. Reach the main summit by the
final part of the WNW ridge. 5-6hr
218 SOUTH-EAST
RIDGE
PD A Eggel, M Jossen and
The ridge starts at the Mittelaletschliiche but is normally only climbed
from the gap NW of the big gendarme (Pt3947m). From about mid-
season itis often very difficult to actually set foot on the ridge because of
the size of the bergschrund. Othenoise it is the easiest route from the
Oberaletsch hut. The rock sections are generally loose and fairly
unpleasant in descent.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 213 to Pt 3382 m. Now
climb the glacier slope NE to the foot of the snowy couloir (may be
mostly rock at the end of the summer) leading to the gap in the ridge
NW of Pt 3947m. Climb the couloir (450), which broadens to a snow
slope, to the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge on snow and rock to
the summit. 7-8hr
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