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145   NORTH-EASTRIDGE (Monch)

AD    G Foster with H Baumann snr and jnr and F Teutschmann,

69    31 July 1877

More entertaining than the ordinary, SE ridge route and quite accessible

From the Monchjoch hut.Delicate in places.

From the Monchjoch hut follow Route 124 to the S Eigerjoch at the

foot of the ridge. Climb the snow and rock crest to the bergschrund

which is usually crossed on the L on the NE flank. Back on the

ridge climb two steeper rock sections (or avoid them on the L) to the

final steep snow crest (cornices) leading to the summit. 4-5 hr

 

     

 

146   NORTH-EAST FACE (Monch)

D+    G Hasler and C Jossi snr, 19 June 1904

A short but quite steep (300m, 550-606) snow/ice climb. A good

introduction to N face ice routes.

From the M6nchioch or Berglihuts follow Route 124 towards the S

Eigerioch. From Pt 3687m cross to the centre of the face and take a

line direct to the summit. 3-5hr

 

147   SOUTH-EASTRIDGE (Monch)

PD    R Macdonald with C Almer and M Anderegg, 29 July 1863

67    This constitutes the ordinary route and is a very short climb from the

Monchjoch hut. Delicate in places but of no real difficulty.

From the Monchjoch hut cross snow slopes SW to the foot of the S

branch of the ridge. Climb the ridge in its entirety on snow and

rock. The last section is almost horizontal and corniced. Keep on

the S side. 2-3hr

 

 

148   SOUTH FACE (Monch)

D     D von Bethmann-Hollweg with O and O Supersaxo, 22 Aug 1913

67    Mainly a snow climb but with some delicate rock in dry years.

Difficulties can usually be avoided by choice of line. Because of the S

facing aspect it is as well to complete the face early in the day.

Reach the centre of the face from the Monchjoch hut. Climb up to

the R of the low s6rac band and reach an inclined glacier terrace.

Climb as direct as possible to the summit. 3-5hr

 

Jungfraujoch 3475m

 

First traverse: H George, J Hardy, H Morgan, L Stephen, A Moore

and R Liveing with C Almer, C and P Michel, U Kaufmann,

C Bohren, P Baumann and P Rubi, 21 July 1862

Situated between the Monch and Jungfrau and often referred to

when one really means the Sphinx (3569m) which is the rocky point

on the ridge just to the E and the point of exit from the Jungfraujoch

railway. It is of no great value as a route of access to the

Jungfraufirn, since the N side is protected by a long sierac band.

The S side is very easy.

 

149   NORTH SIDE

D     From the Guggihut follow Route 152 to the upper snow plateau of

the Chielouwenen glacier (3-4hr). Now climb up to the R of the

sierac band (550) and traverse L above it to the col.

3-4 hr, up to 8hr in all

 

110-111

 

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